These vines are now more than 60 years old. We tasted this in the cellar with Virginie - there will be a wood-aged element here too once assembled - but we are just tasting from the steel tanks. Lovely brisk feel, but the fruit is beautifully ripe. Crisp but with depth. Sleek and delicious mineral undertone - a whiff of rock and salt- but the energy just makes you smile. Really good Chablis. Drinking range: 2020 - 2025 L&S (Nov 2018)
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The 2017 Chablis Vieilles Vignes Les Pargues is another alluring wine in this range. Powerful and yet also lifted, the Pargues reveals notes of orange peel, apricot, hazelnut and spice. Layered and creamy, with plenty of aromatic depth and finesse, the Pargues is a winner. Readers will have a hard time keeping their hands off this gem. Drinking range: 2020 - 2029 Rating: 91 Antonio Galloni, www.vinous.com(Feb 2020)
Here too there is a whiff of the exotic present on the aromas that exhibit pronounced petrol and citrus elements. The exceptionally rich, round and almost thick medium weight plus flavors are supported by a reasonably firm acid spine shaping the lingering, complex and delicious finale. This is opulent but remains balanced and should reward 4 to 7 years of cellaring. Worth checking out if you enjoy seductive examples of Chablis. Drinking range: 2023 - Rating: 89 Allen Meadows, www.Burghound.com(Jan 2020)
The 2017 Chablis Pargues Vieilles Vignes is very promising, offering up aromas of lemon oil, white flowers and oystershell. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied, glossy and supple, with a bright but open-knit profile, simultaneously ripe but crystalline. It has all the makings of an immensely pleasurable Chablis AOC. Rating: 89-91 William Kelley, The Wine Advocate(Aug 2018)
Virginie Moreau is proving more than equal to the task of taking over from her husband Stéphane. Stéphane, who was influenced by Vincent Dauvissat (who recommended him to us many years ago, and who remains an incfluence here) was vigneron whose star burned very brightly, and the domaine continues along the lines he set, working organically, hand-picking, aiming for optimum maturity while avoiding any botrytis influence. The cellar-work is also masterful, using barrel-élevage, but not in such a way that oakiness can readily be detected in the wines (all the barrels are steamed rather than charred and there is no new oak except for in the straight Chablis, and then only one barrel per 100hl in order to age it prior to using for the Premiers Crus). Virginie is proving to have what it takes to build on Stéphane's legacy, and the wines here, full of racy character, textural depth and complexity, are as fine as they have ever been.
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