2017 Grand Cru Domaine Bernard Dugat-Py


This is made up of 2/3 Charmes and 1/3 Mazoyeres Chambertin, but all of their vines here are on the same terroir. In fact they do have other Mazoyeres vines, on different terroir - which is made separately. Wow. This is so intense. Immediately the broad sweep of exciting dark fruit is uncompromising. This Charmes is no slouch, no soft supple cushion of charm - it is bright and driven and loaded with fruit. Peppy and then some mineral bite too. Really concentrated. Loïc harvested early, on the 3rd September and that makes it even more amazing that it has such intensity. A real joy. Charming, but in an electric way. Drinking range: 2022 - 2031L&S(Nov 2018)

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(a blend of one-third Mazoyères and two-thirds Charmes proper – the fruit comes from a mix of mostly 20+ year-old vines and a small percentage of extremely old vines; 50% stems). This too is quite firmly reduced and tough to aromatically read today. The mouthfeel of the Champeaux is reasonably refined though here it’s finer still even with the additional size, weight and volume of the dusty, tension-filled and youthfully austere finale. However, unlike the Champeaux, the supporting tannins make clear that this will need at least a decade of patience first. Drinking range: 2035 - Rating: 92-94 Allen Meadows, 2019)

As is invariably the case, the 2017 Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru is the most expressive and extrovert of the domaine's grands crus, bursting from the glass with an expressive bouquet of ripe red cherries, licorice and subtle nuances of grilled meats. On the palate, the wine is full-bodied, ample and expansive, with a broad attack and a generous core of concentrated fruit that entirely cloaks its discrete chassis of velvety structuring tannins. This Charmes will be more immediate than the Lavaux Saint-Jacques and should drink well with a decade of bottle age. It was vinified with 50% whole cluster and matured in new barrels. Rating: 93-95 William Kelley, The Wine Advocate(Jan 2019)

The 2017 Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru, from vines planted in the early 1980s, is two-thirds Mazoyères-Chambertin and the rest from Charmes-Chambertin, including 50% whole bunch fruit this year. It has a concentrated bouquet with red berry fruit, pressed iris and incense aromas that reveals floral scents with aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with sappy black fruit and fine acidity. I find this a little sinewy in style and just cutting off somewhat abruptly towards the finish compared to the superior Mazis-Chambertin. Drinking range: 2024 - 2038 Rating: 90-92 Neal Martin, 2019)

Glorious aroma full of spice and peppery black fruit. Plus a dusty/mineral overlay adding sophistication. So juicy on the palate, the oak well hidden between the charming red fruits here. Really pretty and showing its origins even with the robust healthiness of all these wines. Fine tannins, so beautifully scented with fruit on the mid palate and super-long. Delicious and will surely become more so. Drinking range: 2025 - 2040 Rating: 17.5 Julia Harding MW, 2018)

The Dugat-Py family have nearly 1ha of Charmes-Chambertin, divided two-thirds to one between Charmes itself and Mazoyères. Picked early, this is a serious, textured, wild-herb-scented wine, beautifully crafted to combine structure with fruit weight, supported by acidity and adroitly handled new wood. Drinking range: 2026 - 2032 Rating: 97 Tim Atkin MW - Decanter(Nov 2018)

Domaine Dugat-Py, along with only DRC, Roumier, Rousseau and Leroy, is rated in the top Three Star category by the 'Classement' published by the Revue du Vin de France. These are the essence of robust Burgundy, wines of huge scale and concentration. Patience is required, so lay down a few grand bottles for your dotage.

Read more about this great domaine on our blog and for a full listing of current stock, please see our Focus On Domaine Dugat-Py.


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