CHARMES CHAMBERTIN
2017 Grand Cru Domaine Joseph Drouhin
25-35% whole-bunch fermentation here and 30% New Oak. This is surprisingly restrained. Great power and pent up energy. For now though it is quite well pact. Very good fruit. Just enough chew, but something more leafy too. Lovely peppy acidity keeps things flowing. Good promise for a fine future comes from the buzzing finish. The Drouhins changed their source of Chrmes fruit a few years ago and this is certainly a step up. Although they do not own this, they do rate the vigneron highly and you can see why. Big cask ‘Integrale’ fermentation again 100% whole clusters for some of the juice. Adds shape and flow. Charming. Drinking range: 2019 - 2029L&S (Nov 2018)
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Aromas of plums, smoke, lightly grilled meat and ripe, spicy fruit. Full-bodied, round and chewy with layers of fruit and a long, flavorful finish. Shows depth and richness. Extremely intense and persistent for the vintage. Drink after 2022. Drinking range: 2022 - Rating: 96 Nick Stock, www.jamessuckling.com (Feb 2019)
The 2017 Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru exhibits aromas of red cherries, potpourri, citrus rind and creamy new oak. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied, ample and expressive, with an exuberant core of succulent, mouthwatering fruit that largely conceals a fine-grained framing of tannin. Giving and fruit-driven, this will drink well in its youth. Rating: 90-92 William Kelley, The Wine Advocate (Jan 2019)
The 2017 Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru was picked on September 9 and 15 and includes 25% to 30% whole clusters. It has an exuberant, intense bouquet of macerated small black cherries and blueberry, hints of violet developing with aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannin, quite glossy compared to the Corton Grand Cru, and offers layers of blackberry and blueberry laced with white pepper toward the finish. I would have liked more mineral expression to come through, but maybe it just needs bottle age. Drinking range: 2020 - 2036 Rating: 90-92 Neal Martin, www.vinous.com (Jan 2019)
Domaine Joseph Drouhin
Joseph Drouhin, founded in 1880 and still family owned, are one of the most well-respected names in Burgundy, especially through their flagship wine, the iconic Clos des Mouches.
A huge part of the Drouhin production comes from their own domaine fruit (78 hectares), and much of the rest comes from contracts such as that with the Marquis de Laguiche, who shook hands with the grandfather of the current generation, agreeing to let him manage his vineyards which included an important part of Le Montrachet; this collaboration endures. Today, the fourth generation is at the helm
Small refinements continue to be made here. The presses have been changed - a reversion to basket pressing for the reds, and for whites the presses are open - along with a number of other growers they are following the trend to think that slight oxidation of the juice before fermentation is not a problem and may add complexity as well as avoiding later problems of premature oxidation in bottle.
For the reds there has been the introduction of selective whole-bunch fermentation in the Côte de Nuits wines. The house style remains one that 'emphasises the natural elegance of great Burgundies' as they describe it. The domaine is all cultivated with an organic and biodynamic approach.
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