2017 Domaine des Lambrays


Lambrays's 'Village Morey' vines are on on Comblanchien - which is a hard limestone - and adds that slight restraint and focus to the wine. The attack here is pure, firm and lithe. This is sharply done. Good pep and intensity. The fruit suppleness and breadth grows in the mouth. Darker lines than some and a lick of cranberry keep this vivacious but so satisfying. A bottle of this will not last long once opened. Deliciously inviting. Drinking range: 2022 - 2029L&S(Nov 2018)

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(from La Bidaude and En la Rue de Vergy, both of which sit high on the slope above Clos des Lambrays and Clos de Tart). Reduction presently dominates the underlying fruit. More interesting are the sleek yet plump and fleshy medium-bodied flavors that exude a discreet minerality onto the solidly complex and persistent finish. This is lovely and a wine that should provide much pleasure young but also reward mid-term cellaring. Drinking range: 2023 - Rating: 89-91 Allen Meadows, 2019)

2017 Morey-Saint-Denis, is now a quarter of the price of the Grand Cru Clos des Lambrays and I cannot see a 4/1 ratio in these two wines. It is also cheaper at L&S than at many other merchants. While this village Morey might seem dear but it has the depth of fruit and texture of a higher being and for a £55 bottle (by the time you add duty and VAT) this is a great treat. Rating: 17.5+ Matthew Jukes 2019)

The 2017 Morey-Saint-Denis Village comes from two parcels on hard Comblanchien limestone in Bidaude and Rue de Vergy, the latter a 0.70-hectare plot purchased in 2018. This is completely de-stemmed. The nose of brambly black fruit is a little disjointed at first, but charming. The one-third new oak is neatly integrated (although some of the old barrels impart a small reduction). The palate is medium-bodied with grainy tannin, a little soft on the entry but firming up toward the second half. Sea salt and a pinch of black pepper tincture the dark berry fruit. Enjoy this over the next five to eight years. Drinking range: 2020 - 2026 Rating: 86-88 Neal Martin, 2019)

Rich black fruit with just a touch of smoky reduction. Smoky and spiced on the nose. Concentrated dark fruit in the heart but surrounded by smooth ripe tannins. Great depth of fruit and elegant at the same time. Rich but approachable. Drinking range: 2020 - 2027 Rating: 16.5 Julia Harding MW, 2018)

Juicy red fruit nose with a touch of spice. Silky onto the palate. It is very nicely ripe with summer fruits a plenty, just a fresh bite to the tannins, fine and lively on the finish. I like the slight spice at the end too and thread of minerality. Lovely.Sarah Marsh MW, The Burgundy Briefing(Dec 2018)

The 'Clos' consists of 8.66 hectares of land enclosed by a wall in which there is the original milestone marking its founding in 1365, confirmed in the records of the Abbaye de Citeaux (those monks knew where to place a vineyard). The Clos owes much of its current fame to the nineteenth and twentieth century proprietors who reconstituted it after the fragmentation of ownership which followed the French revolution. Despite always having been considered a Grand Cru site, the Clos was in fact classified Premier Cru in the original 1936 appellations contrôlées.

The Rodier family which owned it from the 1930s fought to regain its Grand cru status, with eventual success only in 1981, when it became the last of the thirty-three Grands Crus of Burgundy, although by then it had passed to the Saier family. Recently under the benign ownership of the Günther Freund and his family, who gave a very free hand to régisseur Thierry Brouin, who had been employed by their predecessor Rolland Pelletier de Chambure, the quality of the wines here has pushed up again. In 2014 it was bought by the LVMH group.

It has been all rather quick change here as Jacques Devauge has taken over here after a short interregnum under Boris Champy. The legacy of Thierry Brouin can still be felt, Jacques decribing him as having been 'clairvoyant' in his approach to the domaine, which has set it up well to deal with challenges of warmer vintages. Jacques seems set to take this estate onward - 'every domaine has to challenge itself to do better', he says. 2018 marks the first year being fully organic - if all goes well they will be certified after three.


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