NOVAL NACIONAL

The 2017 Nacional has an ethereal bouquet that takes time to unfold but delivers the same dazzling complexity as the last time I tasted it. Black fruit, graphite and pressed flower, perhaps a little more compact than you would expect, so perchance it is just closing down a tad. Excellent cohesion on the palate, spicy and peppery, a crescendo of flavours leading towards its bravura finish. The 2017 delivers, but it's a Port not for the faint-hearted. This is the "Wagner of Quinta do Noval"! Tasted at the Quinta do Noval tasting at Spring restaurant in London. Drinking range: 2033 - 2100 Rating: 99 Neal Martin, www.vinous.com (Nov 2022)

This features dense black currant, fig and plum paste flavors that flow slowly but steadily while warm earth, baker’s chocolate, tar and singed mesquite accents course underneath. The finish is riveted by graphite bolts as the fruit builds and fans out, with the structure working in unison all the way. Like a Richard Serra sculpture, this is massive yet clearly defined. A stunning wine. Drinking range: 2035 - 2070 Rating: 99 James Molesworth, The Wine Spectator (Oct 2019)

The 2017 Quinta do Noval Nacional, which was trodden under foot in lagares and matured in wood for 18 months, demands considerable aeration in the glass even after extended decanting. Eventually it offers an enthralling kaleidoscope of aromas of blackcurrants, clove, thyme and very subtle truffle aromas (not scents that I often find in young Vintage Port.) It is a mercurial bouquet that constantly shape-shifts in the glass. The palate is full-bodied with perfect balance. This is a faultless Vintage Port whatever way you look at it. From start to finish it conveys a sense of beguiling symmetry, a leitmotif of the 2017s, then astonishing energy and persistence towards the finish with cracked black pepper and clove liberally sprinkled over the vivacious black fruit. Sixty second after the wine has departed you can still feel its presence. This is an astonishing Nacional. Period. Drinking range: 2030 - 2099 Rating: 99 Neal Martin, www.vinous.com (Jun 2019)