Wafting from the glass with a gently reductive bouquet of toasted bread, iodine, white flowers and crisp orchard fruit, Lamy's 2017 Saint-Aubin 1er Cru Clos de la Chatenière is medium to full-bodied, layered and precise, with fine depth at the core, chalky structuring extract and a bright, delicately honeyed finish. Drinking range: 2022 - 2045 Rating: 93 William Kelley, The Wine Advocate (Jan 2021)
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The 2017 Saint-Aubin Clos de la Chatenière 1er Cru has an intriguing undergrowth and bell pepper-scented nose. There is a fine line of acidity on the palate, very tensile and focused on the saline finish, residual hints of stem ginger lingering on the aftertaste. Excellent. Drinking range: 2022 - 2040 Rating: 92 Neal Martin, www.vinous.com (Dec 2020)
(worked entirely by hand as the vineyard has a 40% south-facing slope which ensures that it receives plenty of sun). A distinctly smoky nose features notes of matchstick, petrol and a plethora of citrus nuances and particularly lemon-lime. There is fine volume to the attractively textured and admirably concentrated medium-bodied flavors that exude evident minerality on the powerful, serious and built-to-age finish. Lovely. Drinking range: 2027 - Rating: 90-93 Allen Meadows, www.Burghound.com (Jun 2019)
Notes of light reduction frame aromas of crisp green apple, dried white flowers and citrus oil, introducing the 2017 Saint-Aubin 1er Cru Clos de la Chatenière, a medium to full-bodied, satiny textured wine with a tangy line of acidity and a pure, searingly mineral finish. Lamy adds the fruit from his young vines in this parcel to his Bourgogne, so this is effectively an old-vine cuvée. Rating: 91-93 William Kelley, The Wine Advocate (Jan 2019)
Very rich nose and much broader than the village St-Aubin. Exciting density and apparently potential. Drinking range: 2021 - 2030 Rating: 17 Jancis Robinson OBE MW - www.JancisRobinson.com (Jan 2019)
The 2017 Saint-Aubin Clos de la Chatenière 1er Cru comes from 1.25 hectares of vine planted in 1964. This is more primal and reduced on the nose making it difficult to read at the time of my visit. The palate is one of the most powerful from Lamy this year, impressive in terms of white with flecks of ginger on the finish. This will be difficult to resist once in bottle. Drinking range: 2022 - 2035 Rating: 91-93 Neal Martin, www.vinous.com (Jan 2019)
Olivier’s parcel is more Chassagne facing, the vineyard slopes one way towards St Aubn and the other to Chassagne and this face is clearly warmer. Vey quick maturation in this vineyard - also there is the wall, so no wind. This is quite tropical. Hint of pineapple. Not a thick texture, not so much viscosity as you might expect. However a lot of concentration and matter. Slight stoney, but the aromatics and fruit overwhelm the minerality at this stage, but this is early days.Sarah Marsh MW, The Burgundy Briefing (Dec 2018)
Domaine Hubert Lamy
Olivier Lamy has built on the solid foundations his father Hubert prepared with twenty years and more of work in the vineyards. Today the Domaine has 18.5 hectares of vines - 80% are Chardonnay and 20% Pinot Noir. The vines are in several appellations - Saint-Aubin, Puligny-Montrachet, Chassagne-Montrachet and Santenay, as well as the excellent Bourgogne Blanc. The reputation of the domaine is now made, but the Saint Aubins, both red and white, remain some of the bargains of Côte d'Or, and challenge the supposed superiority of the grander village names on a regular basis, both in terms of young and mature wines.
Olivier's wine-making style and preference is to emphasise the fresh and the mineral side of his wines, and in 2016 and 2017 there was no new wood at all, and that is with the wines in 600 litre demi-muids rather that the classic Burgundy (225 litre) fût. Certainly Oliver's whites do have an arrow-like purity and intensity, and seem to age completely straight and true.
The reds are worth more than a casual mention too. Olivier has been getting some consultation help from Sylvain Pataille, and the wines have energy and bounce along with the supple tannins and ripeness.
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