VOSNE ROMANÉE

2017 1er Cru Petits Monts Domaine Joseph Drouhin

EN PRIMEUR

There’s a very attractive rose and spice edge to the fresh red cherries here, as well as a subtle, earthy nuance. The palate has a beautiful array of plush, smooth cherry flesh with long, velvety tannins that are very approachable already. Try from 2022. Drinking range: 2022 - Rating: 93 Nick Stock, www.jamessuckling.com (Feb 2019)

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As ever the 'Petits Monts' is one of the stars of the show here. The parcel is high up the slope - above DRCs Richebourg and next to Cros Parentoux - an impressive spot which does not disappoint. One of the last that they pick as its height means it ripens quite late. The first vintage was 1985 and they really seem to understand the vineyard. The have nailed it once again in 2017. Lovely light middle but good energy is lively with cherry skin and cranberry crunch. There is sap too and riper juice lurking - driven on brilliantly by a fine-line of minerality that weaves its way throughout the well-kempt core. For some of the juice they ferment by 'Vendange Integral'. With whole bunches going in to a 500l puncheon for fermentation. Veronique explains this adds elegance and explains the lightness in colour. This is an superbly elegant wine. Pretty and with a suavely energetic drive. Lithe and bright. Very good. Drinking range: 2022 - 2030L&S (Nov 2018)

(from two parcels that total .39 ha; they are worked by horse because there is no path for a tractor; 40% whole clusters). The higher whole cluster percentage is evident as the nose is exceptionally floral with its cool and pure aromas of rose petal, violet and lilac along with plenty of spice elements. The restrained, focused and beautifully well-delineated medium weight flavors evidence good muscle on the firm, structured and very clearly built-to-age finish. This is textbook Petits Monts. Drinking range: 2032 - Rating: 93 Allen Meadows, www.Burghound.com (Apr 2019)

The 2017 Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Les Petits Monts is lovely, wafting from the glass with aromas of sweet dark berries, smoked meats, spices, rich soil, grilled game and a delicate framing of new wood. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied, velvety and layered, with an ample and enveloping core of fruit, supple tannins and juicy acids, concluding with good length on the finish. Rating: 92-94 William Kelley, The Wine Advocate (Jan 2019)

The 2017 Vosne-Romanée Les Petits Monts 1er Cru is one of the last vineyards Drouhin picked, and there is just a little bit of vinification intégrale used in this wine. It has quite a powerful bouquet of strawberry pastilles, raspberry and light rose petal aromas, quite pure and complex, deserving of this excellent Premier Cru. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannin, beautiful pure cranberry and raspberry fruit and real race and vigor toward the structured finish. This is one of the best Petits Monts I have tasted this vintage. Five barrels produced. Drinking range: 2022 - 2040 Rating: 92-94 Neal Martin, www.vinous.com (Jan 2019)

Mid crimson. A more obvious ripeness on the nose. Rounded and generous. Spicy, more obviously oaky. Deep and chewy and fresh. Firmly structured but with ripe fruit at the core. Drinking range: 2027 - 2037 Rating: 17 Julia Harding MW, www.JancisRobinson.com (Dec 2018)

Les Petits Monts is owned by Véronique Drouhin rather than her family, which may be why she's such a huge fan of the premier cru. This is particularly impressive in 2017, using 35% new wood and 40% whole bunches to good effect. It's textured, fresh and elegant, showing lovely red cherry and angostura bitters notes, with chiselled minerality and very subtle wood. Drinking range: 2023 - 2030 Rating: 96 Tim Atkin MW - Decanter (Nov 2018)

Joseph Drouhin, founded in 1880 and still family owned, are one of the most well-respected names in Burgundy, especially through their flagship wine, the iconic Clos des Mouches.

A huge part of the Drouhin production comes from their own domaine fruit (78 hectares), and much of the rest comes from contracts such as that with the Marquis de Laguiche, who shook hands with the grandfather of the current generation, agreeing to let him manage his vineyards which included an important part of Le Montrachet; this collaboration endures. Today, the fourth generation is at the helm

Small refinements continue to be made here. The presses have been changed - a reversion to basket pressing for the reds, and for whites the presses are open - along with a number of other growers they are following the trend to think that slight oxidation of the juice before fermentation is not a problem and may add complexity as well as avoiding later problems of premature oxidation in bottle.

For the reds there has been the introduction of selective whole-bunch fermentation in the Côte de Nuits wines. The house style remains one that 'emphasises the natural elegance of great Burgundies' as they describe it. The domaine is all cultivated with an organic and biodynamic approach.

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