VOSNE ROMANÉE
2017 Domaine J. Confuron Cotetidot
This is direct, cleanly mineral and there is good gentle grip. After tasting the Chambolle you are struck by a firmer line and and more taut feel, as you would expect here from Yves. This frame carries lovely fruit - dark and joyous. Long running and intense. More damsons and blackberries giving acidity. Long and delicious and pure feel with drive. Enticing now but this will no doubt fill out with more time and become even more joyful. Drinking range: 2023 - 2029L&S (Nov 2018)
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A background dollop of wood can be found on the notably ripe aromas of black cherry, cassis, plum and spice elements. There is excellent intensity as well as fine detail to the medium-bodied flavors that possess a velvety mid-palate that contrasts with the notably serious, robust and structured finish. This isn’t for early drinking. Drinking range: 2029 - Rating: 89-91 Allen Meadows, www.Burghound.com (Jan 2019)
Quite dark crimson. Lots of ripe fruit and a bit of Vosne drive – though more about concentration than character. Over-delivers – if you are looking for fruit. Drinking range: 2022 - 2029 Rating: 16+ Jancis Robinson OBE MW - www.JancisRobinson.com (Jan 2019)
Deep colour. Rich aroma. Full and juicy and dense. The tannins are rich, ripe and chewy and grainy. Somewhat robust. Deep and full body. The tannins have matter and depth to them and this gives the balance to the wine as the acidity is low. You can see how this will develop - bit robust at the moment, but will mellow into the sweetness and rich aromatic character. Rating: 15.85 Sarah Marsh MW, The Burgundy Briefing (Dec 2018)
Domaine J. Confuron Cotetidot
Vignerons since the seventeenth century, the Confuron family has always selected and propagated vines to ensure that their plant material produces the highest quality, and they even have a clone of Pinot named after them - 'Pinot Confuron'.
The domaine has several Grands Cru vineyards as well as two hectares of the great Vosne Romanée Premier Cru 'Les Suchots'. There are around 12 hectares in all. The vines have never seen chemical weedkillers, and are ploughed and managed organically.
The Confurons have always used whole-bunch fermentation, picking very late, which really is a necessity if the stems are to be properly ripe and not give green flavours to the wine. A bit like the Thévenets with their whites in the Mâconnais, they pick so much later that they can seem to have different vintages to everyone else. Yves thinks that 2007 was their great vintage of the first decade of this millennium, and he'd probably be the only grower in the Côte de Nuits who would say that. Yves also makes the wines at Domaine de Courcelin Pommard, in the same way.
Yves, opinionated and laconical as ever, dismisses those who make pale wines by 'infusion' and says that failing to get the whole bunches properly ripe - and using all the bunch - is failing to get everything the terroir can offer. The wines he makes are dark, richly concentrated, and often hard to taste in their development, but experience shows that they age brilliantly. Defending his decision to pick late, he once said 'you miss the differentiation between vintages' if you don't - making 'cut-and-paste' wines which are the same every year... if you pay for a seat at the opera, you don't want to hear a variety singer'.
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