CLOS DES LAMBRAYS

The 2018 Clos des Lambrays Grand Cru does not quite have the amplitude of Magnien's Clos Saint-Denis, but it displays more vivacious red fruit, clarifying with aeration and eventually develops quite an ethereal quality. The palate is beautifully balanced with sappy red fruit laced with white pepper, sage and graphite notes. Superb structure on the finish - quintessentially Morey-Saint-Denis with wonderful sappiness. Bon vin! Tasted blind at the Burgfest 2018 red tasting. Drinking range: 2028 - 2055 Rating: 97 Neal Martin, www.vinous.com (Nov 2022)

The 2018 Clos des Lambrays Grand Cru has an intriguing nose. There is just a touch of reduction at first and the whole bunch element is more conspicuous here compared to the nascent 2019. Touches of brown spice, clove and freshly rolled tobacco accompany the black fruit. The palate has quite a lactic entry, a smear of dark chocolate that feels incongruous. Yet there is good depth and grip and it feels quite saline towards the finish, long in the mouth, though not as complex as other Grand Crus from this vintage. That said, it should age with style. Drinking range: 2023 - 2040 Rating: 93 Neal Martin, www.vinous.com (Dec 2020)

(produced from two large parcels of differing vine ages - one that is approximately two-thirds of the blend and is now 50+ years of age and a second, smaller group of vines that is approximately 25+ years of age; made with 80% whole clusters and 50% new wood). Once again the nose is completely reduced and about all that can be said is that the underlying fruit appears to be quite ripe. On the palate there is good freshness and vivacity as the succulent and rounded middle weight plus flavors also possess a beguiling texture before culminating in a powerful, sappy, firm and somewhat raspy finish. It’s hard to discern how much of the raspy feel of the tannins displayed by all three wines is due to the vintage or due to Boris Champy perhaps changing the vinification style somewhat compared to that of Thierry Brouin. Drinking range: 2023 - Rating: 91-93 Allen Meadows, www.Burghound.com (Jan 2020)

The 2018 Clos des Lambrays Grand Cru is showing very well, exhibiting notes of cassis, ripe wild berries, dark chocolate, black truffles, grilled squab and rich soil tones. On the palate, it's full-bodied, multidimensional and elegant, with refined structuring tannins, lively acids and good concentration. This is a deep and complete Clos des Lambrays that was vinified with 80% whole cluster and matured in 50% new oak. At 13.6% alcohol, it's very nicely balanced, and seems set to rank as the finest rendition of this quasi-monopole since at least 2015. Rating: 93-95+ William Kelley, The Wine Advocate (Jan 2020)

The 2018 Clos des Lambrays is 80% whole bunch this year and aged in 50% new oak. Jacques Desvauges took the sample from two barrels in proportion with the wood. It has a floral bouquet with scents of wilted rose petals and incense, hints of cedar filtering through the red berry fruit. The stems are much better integrated than in the Les Loups. The elegant palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins, peppery but harmonious and sustained, and plenty of energy toward the finish. This is the only vintage vinified by Boris Champy, and he did a fine job. Drinking range: 2023 - 2042 Rating: 93-95 Neal Martin, www.vinous.com (Jan 2020)

60 m difference in height between the top and the bottom of the Clos. 80% whole bunch and 50% new barrels. Barrel sample. Deeply coloured. Perfumed and dark and rocky on the nose. A hint of pepper but the most elegant, restrained dark-red fruit. Just a touch of oak spice. Savoury spice not sweet spice. Incredibly tender tannins. They did three punchdowns a day but did not push down to the bottom of the tank. There’s power in the mid palate but it is delicate on the finish, such tannic finesse that you almost miss the power of the vintage. Darkness to the fruit shows the ripeness. Very very long and so elegant already. Oak eaten by the fruit. A definite mineral/pepper layer adds to the freshness. Mouth-watering even if the acidity is only moderate (pH 3.65). Well balanced at 13.7%. Drinking range: 2025 - 2040 Rating: 18 Julia Harding MW, www.JancisRobinson.com (Dec 2019)