|Sub-district||Côte de Beaune|
|Vineyard||Grand Clos des Épenots|
Unctuous, beautifully balanced - harmonious even in this extraordinary richness - a powerful fist in a thick velvet glove. This is a huge and complex wine with a mass of sweet spice and extraordinary ageing potential - and will one day accompany a Côte de Boeuf in winter to make a truly memorable dinner. L&S (Nov 2019)
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(from an enormous 4.92 ha parcel with vines ranging from 50 to 65 years of age). This is sufficiently reduced that all that can be discerned are notes of menthol though it is clear that the underlying fruit is very ripe. The thick and almost unctuous broad-shouldered flavors coat the palate with sappy dry extract that helps to buffer the notably firm tannic spine shaping the warm, grippy and youthfully austere finale. Drinking range: 2033 - Rating: 87-90 Allen Meadows, www.Burghound.com(Apr 2020)
Spicy aroma, super seductive tannins. wonderful texture. Flowing and succulent. Depth and layering. Lovely long and intense finish. A complex wine. So sophisticated. Drinking range: 2026 - 2035 Rating: 96 Sarah Marsh MW, The Burgundy Briefing(Nov 2019)
Domaine de Courcel
One of the great domaines of Pommard, with a 400 year history in the same family. The domaine produces a small amount of Bourgogne Chardonnay, a completely over-performing Bourgogne Rouge, a village Pommard (Vaumuriens, 1.44 ha), but the biggest part of the domaine consists of four great Premier Cru expressions of the terroir of Pommard, Fremiers (0.79 ha), Croix Noires (0.58 ha), Grand Clos des Epenots (4.89 ha) and Rugiens (1.07 ha). These represent a very different style to the Clos des Épeneaux of Comte Armand, for example. Yves Confuron, the régisseur, describes the difference between the two top wines by saying that the Grand Clos is 'terreux' while the Rugiens is 'aérien'.
The aim is to limit yields to around 25hl/ha, to attain optimum ripeness. The vines are ploughed, and pruned carefully to suit each one, then de-budded in spring and green-harvested in August to keep the fruit load balanced. Following Yves' usual practice the harvest is late and the vatting is long - usually around a month, with a cold maceration leading into a cool fermentation, and a long post-fermentation soak under the protection of the carbon dioxide given off by the fermentation. The wines are developed in barrel over 21 to 23 months, with a third of the barrels being replaced each year. After racking they are bottled without fining or filtration.
The domaine produces wines with astonishing depth and density that still retain the freshness, just like Yves' own wines at Domaine Confuron-Cotetidot. They are classic vins de garde and patience is advised - and will be amply rewarded.
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