Crisp nose, mineral to the fore - palate is loaded with juicy citrus notes. This has an easy flow though - smooth and velveteen on the palate with just a slowly building mineral scrape towards the finish. Good stuff. From vines on the rock of Vergisson. Behind Verchere. 'Calcaire Rouge' soil here. Top drawer terroir gives such refined complexity in this humdinger of a Maconnais. L&S (Nov 2019)
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The 2018 Pouilly-Fuissé Les Crays is another expressive, immediate wine from Barraud this year, bursting with aromas of peach, pear, mandarin orange and white flowers. Medium to full-bodied, fleshy and sumptuous, it's pretty and open-knit, with ripe acids and a saline finish. Drinking range: 2020 - 2027 Rating: 91 William Kelley, The Wine Advocate(Jun 2020)
(from 60+ year old vines located in Vergisson). A more subtle though hardly invisible dollop of wood can be found on the notably ripe yet fresh white-fleshed fruit that exude a discreet spiciness. There is better verve is perhaps not quite the same density of material to the middle weight flavors that possess a slightly more sophisticated mouth feel along with mineral hints that add a sense of lift to the clean, dry and bitter lemon-inflected finish. This will need at least a few years of bottle age to add a bit more depth. Drinking range: 2025 - Rating: 90-92 Allen Meadows, www.Burghound.com(Jan 2020)
Bottled. Honeyed fruit plus a reductive note. Pretty exciting blend of elements all in the right place. Splits the difference between a Mâconnais wine and one from the Côte d’Or. Opulent but not fat. GV Drinking range: 2023 - 2030 Rating: 17 Jancis Robinson OBE MW - www.JancisRobinson.com(Jan 2020)
Domaine Daniel Barraud
Daniel and Martine Barraud, now joined by their son Julien and daughter Anaïs, have vineyards in Vergisson that are mostly high up under the famous rock (Vergisson lies between the two dramatic cliffs of the rocks of Solutré and Vergisson). The vineyards here are significantly higher than those of Fuissé, and are consequently later-ripening, and the wines often have a more solid structure - but all of Daniel's wines have their own character, from the Puligny-like directness of the La Roche to the fat richness of the 'en Buland', via the mineral force of the Crays.
All the wines are made keeping close to the tenets of bio-dynamics - not as Daniel says for the sake of it - but because over the generations experience has taught them these principles really are the best way forward - as such they only ever bottle on a waning moon, All the wines see some barrel ageing apart from the Chaintré, which is aged in foudre (2/3) and tank.
As Allen Meadows wrote in 2014 in Burghound "I have said this before, but I will say it again: no one makes better wine in the Mâconnais than Barraud. There are a few domaines that produce wines that are sometimes just as good, ... but none of them surpasses the quality he consistently produces. If you aren’t familiar with the wines, you owe it to yourself and your pocketbook to check them out." (www.Burghound.com).
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