SAINT AUBIN

2019 Compendium Domaine Joseph Colin

EN PRIMEUR

(from 8 different vineyards). Moderately exotic aromas include those of white peach, apricot and discreet floral nuances. Here too the flavors are sleek and intense with good salinity that adds a sense of lift to the lightly stony and agreeably dry finish. This could use a bit more depth but it’s really quite pretty. Drinking range: 2024 - Rating: 88 Allen Meadows, www.Burghound.com (Jun 2021)

* This is a pre-shipment/primeur offer. All orders are accepted under the TERMS of this offer which differ from the terms of the rest of the site.

The 2019 Saint-Aubin "Compendium" has a crisp Granny Smith apple and granite scented bouquet that just needs a little more intensity. The palate is well defined with crisp acidity, not amazingly complex but fresh and apply, with a Puligny-like salinity on the aftertaste. Enjoy over the next 4- 8 years. Drinking range: 2022 - 2029 Rating: 89 Neal Martin, www.vinous.com (Jan 2021)

Floral, nicely balanced and with raspy acidity, this is an impressive wine and one which is detailed and also rewarding. A new cuvée to me, this ought to be good value and a wise punt, too, for those interested in early drinking wines with a decent degree of flair and accuracy. Rating: 17.5 Matthew Jukes www.matthewjukes.com (Jan 2021)

Light and fragrant on the nose and appetising. Interesting green-fruits aromas. Really quite delicate. Well done! Drinking range: 2023 - 2028 Rating: 16.5 Jancis Robinson OBE MW - www.JancisRobinson.com (Jan 2021)

Now a blend of 8 terroirs as Vermarain has been added this year, just above the 1er cru. Pale colour with green tints, and a fresh, attractive St-Aubin nose. The fruit follows through very well from nose to palate with some green apple on top of white stone fruit, medium plus acidity and a good length. Tasted: October 2020 **** Rating: 88-90 Jasper Morris - Inside Burgundy  (Oct 2020)

Joseph Colin is one of the four children of Marc Colin (the others being Pierre-Yves, Damien and Caroline), who had a large domaine with vines in Saint Aubin, Santenay, Chassagne and Puligny. Pierre-Yves left the family domaine in 2005 and after that Joseph was an important member of the team there. After making a token 1800 or so bottles on his own account in 2016, he started in earnest with 2017, with seven hectares of vines, from which he makes an astonishing nineteen different cuvées.

Most of the vines he has in Saint Aubin are young, but by limiting bunches to six or seven per vine, he manages to control the yields. With plenty of time to learn his craft at Domaine Marc Colin, he has developed into a confident winemaker. He experimented with sulphur levels in the wines at the family domaine, so coming to his current view that the wines should be left the longest time possible without added S02, perhaps adding some at racking, but if he feels there's still enough C02 after racking, he will not even add any at that stage, so as to develop 'wine at its purest', but he is keen to say also that he has no standard recipe - he will adapt to each wine. In 2020 he again used no S02 until just before bottling, but he's clear that if there's some botrytis, for example, he will add it earlier. Generally nothing is either fined or filtered. He is very aware of biodynamics, but says that the tides are more important than just the phase of the moon, and that he places less importance on whether it's a fruit or flower day - for him the important thing is not to manipulate a wine when it's tasting good - you must do it when it's not showing well.

Joseph is a very bright new prospect for lovers of precise, pure white Burgundies with fresh acidity and crystalline definition.

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