2020 1er Cru Combettes Domaine Jean-Marc Boillot


This came across a bit more restrained than the other 1er Crus, certainly on the nose. From half way up the hill between Champs Canet at the top and Referts at the bottom. A mix of the 2 terroirs - quite deep soil and some smaller limestone caillou as opposed to bedrock or little stones. Middle stretch of the coteaux (altitude-wise) is the best slice and this is serious. Lovey, preening ripe fruit but light on its toes on the attack. Zips across the palate at once rich and sleekly polished but also bright and zippy too. Touch of more tropical fruit - but lots of lemon and firm melon too. Very good, if a little closed for now - but heavily laden with lots of promise. Drinking range: 2024 - 2033L&S (Nov 2021)

In Bond

75cl bottles (case of 6)

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There is so much stuffing and weight here it is amazing, and so there is very much a Grand Cru feel to this wine, and it runs on for minutes on the palate. Tremendous presence and yet in spite of the volume of flavour, this is an impeccably clean wine with active acidity and true freshness. 19+/20Matthew Jukes www.matthewjukes.com (Jan 2022)

Pale primrose. A fine bouquet with some complexity, fruit as white as it is yellow, this has really maintained its grip though the fruit is at its fleshiest here, quite a long finish. Does it have quite the nervous intensity at the back? That is not really what Combettes is about. Fruit marries well with the oak here, a delicious and fairly accessible Combettes. Tasted: November 2021 Rating: 94 Jasper Morris - Inside Burgundy  (Dec 2021)

The 2020 Puligny-Montrachet Les Combettes 1er Cru has a focused and taut bouquet, a fine bead of acidity, light apple blossom and earthy scents emerging with time. The palate is well defined with good concentration, a fine bead of acidity, weight with a grippy finish. A lot of Puligny in your glass here! Drinking range: 2023 - 2038 Rating: 91-93 Neal Martin, www.vinous.com (Dec 2021)

Jean-Marc Boillot left the family domaine to be winemaker to Olivier Leflaive for five years. Then from his maternal grandfather Étienne Sauzet he inherited much of the vineyard of the old Domaine Sauzet, in some of the best vineyards of Puligny. With this holding and others from his paternal side, he set up his own business, and he has been responsible for over 50 vintages. His daughter Lydie and son-in-law François Alzingre have worked alongside him and effectively run the domaine, and are now being joined by their children.

With the belief that a vine reaches its full potential when 40 years old, the team look after their old vines carefully, and those in La Garenne and Combettes are still those planted by J-M's grandfather Étienne Sauzet. Vines are planted to a minimum of 12000 vines per hectare, and the vineyard worked by ploughing to encourage the plants to have deep roots. They are trimmed quite high at 1.2m to leave lots of leaves for photosynthesis, and also to shade the bunches from direct sun exposure which might burn them.

Great care is taken over the date of harvest, with careful controls of ripeness made over a period of three weeks prior to starting. The grapes are harvested manually, and placed in small cases for transport to the winery, where they are pressed as whole bunches. The juice is allowed to settle out in tank and then transferred to barrel for fermentation with the fine lees. Batonnage once a week during the 11 months of barrel-aging helps the wines to feed and fatten on the lees. They normally use between 25 and 30% new wood. The domaine makes wines that show well young, with sometimes citrussy, sometimes with complex exotic fruit aromas, always with the core of minerality, and they age well too.


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