White Half-bottles

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Domaine Adhémar et Francis Boudin

Francis Boudin, who has obviously been in charge for many years, continues to make wines which from this sector at La Chapelle Vaupelteigne, next to the Fourchaume escarpment, gets good ripeness and the wines here are quite fat and supple, while still retaining the classic Chablis minerality.

The new generation were much in evidence at our autumn 2018 visit, and so the continuity is assured, with Francis' daughters Angélique and Virginie, as well as Angélique's husband, now working in the domaine.

Domaine Paul et Marie Jacqueson

The domaine consists now of 13 hectares of vines, mostly in Rully, but also parcels in Mercurey and Bouzeron. The grapes are harvested by hand and vinified in classical fashion, before an élevage in barrel (up to 25% new wood). Under Paul, and now by his children, Marie and Pierre, the domaine has become adept at a sophisticated use of barrels, the élevage here is key to the quality they consistently achieve, and this rubs off on the négociant 'Cuvée Sélection' which is always beautifully finished.

Quality is as high as ever - or higher, but the 2018 vintage is not one that will be remembered with any fondness by the Jacquesons, since quantitively it was a disaster, 65% down in white and 35% down in red, following appalling frosts early in the year, which took out much of the slope of the premers crus. As usual the élevage in barrel here is extremely precise and delicately done with around 20% new wood, the Premiers Crus getting barrels with a little more toast. The whites are all concentrated and fresh in 2018, while the reds are richly full of flavour with good freshness, the fullest being the Préaux.

Jean-Marc Boillot

Jean-Marc's daughter Lydie has been at the helm here for years now and continues the brilliant work. The white wines are particularly impressive. with power and energy in perfect balance. Their fantastic holdings in Puligny are the real prize and the 2017s once again offer fantastic quality and real terroir specific wines - at a very sensible price. Alongside the wines from the family's own vineyards, she also runs a successful négociant business, vinifying wines from the Côte Chalonaise with huge aplomb. In Montagny in particular, the wine is the best we have found in the appellation, and remarkably consistent from year to year.

Domaine Fernand & Laurent Pillot

The origins of the Pillot family in Chassagne can be traced back to the eighteenth century, when they seem to have been coopers more than vignerons. In the nineteenth century they abandoned barrel-making in favour of enlarging the property in Chassagne. Fernand and Laurent, who is the fourth generation, added to it again in 1992, and then in 2001 Laurent's wife Marie-Anne inherited half of her family's property, the Pommard domaine of Pothier-Rieusset, and Laurent and his father bought the other half. The domaine now stands at 14.5 hectares of vines across almost the whole length of the Côte de Beaune from Santenay to Beaune.

The Domaine is worked according to organic principles and are ploughed – no chemical weedkillers are used. They have also been members of the Dephy-ECO-phyto group, which works to reduce the number of treatments using copper sulphate, since 2012.

Laurent has always managed to pack in a lot alongside his running of the vineyard. He has a sophisticated microlight which he flies to all corners of France, he keeps and hunts hawks, and conducts the Chassagne brass band as well as dabbling in Mayoral duties - on top of being a father of three, Anaïs, Adrien and Eugène. They are all mad about the alps and disappear up the mountains at regular intervals.

Laurent's eldest son Adrien has been travelling the world making wine all over the place for the last few years having completed his training in Beaune. Bringing back lessons learnt in Australia, South Africa and California (and from a stint at Lea & Sandeman) - he now helps Laurent with all aspects of the wine-making and viticulture at the domaine. The wines have long been L&S favourites in both red and white - they represent excellent value, and they age very well too, despite being attractive young. The whites are precise and pure, and not lacking for body and generosity, while the reds are velvety and juicy, beautifully balanced even if drunk young on their expressive Pinot fruit. The domaine was rightfully heralded in Decanter Magazine as 'an address that deserves to be better-known'. Great value and real pleasure across their range.