Domaine Adhémar et Francis BoudinFrancis Boudin, who has obviously been in charge for many years, continues to make wines which from this sector at La Chapelle Vaupelteigne, next to the Fourchaume escarpment, gets good ripeness and the wines here are quite fat and supple, while still retaining the classic Chablis minerality.
The new generation were much in evidence at our autumn 2018 visit, and so the continuity is assured, with Francis' daughters Angélique and Virginie, as well as Angélique's husband, now working in the domaine.
2018 CHABLIS Domaine Adhémar et Francis Boudin
In such a warm vintage the Boudin family have done a great job here presenting a fresh and nicely clipped Chablis. As ever their trademark soft fruit and weight is in there but delivered brightly andIn such a warm vintage the Boudin family have done a great job here presenting a fresh and nicely clipped Chablis. As ever their trademark soft fruit and weight is in there but delivered brightly and with good verve, another very pleasing release from this house favourite.L&S(Nov 2019)
2018 CHABLIS 1er Cru Fourchaume Domaine Adhémar et Francis Boudin
There is good freshness here too. Brighter and also broader. This is quite chunky in the fruit feel - but nice style and good mineral lift. There is a phenolic texture, nice weight of dry extract.There is good freshness here too. Brighter and also broader. This is quite chunky in the fruit feel - but nice style and good mineral lift. There is a phenolic texture, nice weight of dry extract. And then a nice cleansing sweep of minerality. Soft apple notes waft across the finish.L&S(Nov 2019)
Domaine Paul et Marie Jacqueson
The domaine consists now of 13 hectares of vines, mostly in Rully, but also parcels in Mercurey and Bouzeron. The grapes are harvested by hand and vinified in classical fashion, before an élevage in barrel (up to 25% new wood). Under Paul, and now by his children, Marie and Pierre, the domaine has become adept at a sophisticated use of barrels, the élevage here is key to the quality they consistently achieve, and this rubs off on the négociant 'Cuvée Sélection' which is always beautifully finished.
Quality is as high as ever - or higher, but the 2018 vintage is not one that will be remembered with any fondness by the Jacquesons, since quantitively it was a disaster, 65% down in white and 35% down in red, following appalling frosts early in the year, which took out much of the slope of the premers crus. As usual the élevage in barrel here is extremely precise and delicately done with around 20% new wood, the Premiers Crus getting barrels with a little more toast. The whites are all concentrated and fresh in 2018, while the reds are richly full of flavour with good freshness, the fullest being the Préaux.
2018 RULLY 1er Cru La Pucelle Domaine Paul et Marie Jacqueson
Bottled the day before we tasted, so showing a little tight, but there's a phenolic density, a firmness full of bright flavoury freshness. The Premiers Crus get 20% new wood, but the wood influenceBottled the day before we tasted, so showing a little tight, but there's a phenolic density, a firmness full of bright flavoury freshness. The Premiers Crus get 20% new wood, but the wood influence is nearly unnoticeable, despite Marie saying that these barrels are given a little more toast that those used on the lesser wines. Give it six months, and it will drink well over the following three or four years. Drinking range: 2020 - 2024L&S(Nov 2019)
Jean-Marc BoillotJean-Marc's daughter Lydie has been at the helm here for years now and continues the brilliant work. The white wines are particularly impressive. with power and energy in perfect balance. Their fantastic holdings in Puligny are the real prize and the 2017s once again offer fantastic quality and real terroir specific wines - at a very sensible price. Alongside the wines from the family's own vineyards, she also runs a successful négociant business, vinifying wines from the Côte Chalonaise with huge aplomb. In Montagny in particular, the wine is the best we have found in the appellation, and remarkably consistent from year to year.
2018 MONTAGNY 1er Cru Jean-Marc Boillot
Lydie's 2018 has immediate impact with good weight on the palate. The fruit is really quite intense. It is a Montagny with the volume turned up! This is gently spicy with some good tropical notesLydie's 2018 has immediate impact with good weight on the palate. The fruit is really quite intense. It is a Montagny with the volume turned up! This is gently spicy with some good tropical notes and a nice richness, but not fat up front. Deep and nice phenolic weight. A broad sweep of fruit that neatly tightens up on the finish. A true crowd pleasing Burgundy! L&S(Nov 2019)
Domaine Fernand & Laurent Pillot
The origins of the Pillot family in Chassagne can be traced back to the eighteenth century, when they seem to have been coopers more than vignerons. In the nineteenth century they abandoned barrel-making in favour of enlarging the property in Chassagne. Fernand and Laurent, who is the fourth generation, added to it again in 1992, and then in 2001 Laurent's wife Marie-Anne inherited half of her family's property, the Pommard domaine of Pothier-Rieusset, and Laurent and his father bought the other half. The domaine now stands at 14.5 hectares of vines across almost the whole length of the Côte de Beaune from Santenay to Beaune.
The Domaine is worked according to organic principles and are ploughed – no chemical weedkillers are used. They have also been members of the Dephy-ECO-phyto group, which works to reduce the number of treatments using copper sulphate, since 2012.
Laurent has always managed to pack in a lot alongside his running of the vineyard. He has a sophisticated microlight which he flies to all corners of France, he keeps and hunts hawks, and conducts the Chassagne brass band as well as dabbling in Mayoral duties - on top of being a father of three, Anaïs, Adrien and Eugène. They are all mad about the alps and disappear up the mountains at regular intervals.
Laurent's eldest son Adrien has been travelling the world making wine all over the place for the last few years having completed his training in Beaune. Bringing back lessons learnt in Australia, South Africa and California (and from a stint at Lea & Sandeman) - he now helps Laurent with all aspects of the wine-making and viticulture at the domaine. The wines have long been L&S favourites in both red and white - they represent excellent value, and they age very well too, despite being attractive young. The whites are precise and pure, and not lacking for body and generosity, while the reds are velvety and juicy, beautifully balanced even if drunk young on their expressive Pinot fruit. The domaine was rightfully heralded in Decanter Magazine as 'an address that deserves to be better-known'. Great value and real pleasure across their range.
2018 CHASSAGNE MONTRACHET Domaine Fernand & Laurent Pillot
Floral nose, then more serious density on the palate, juicy citrus and a balanced finish.Floral nose, then more serious density on the palate, juicy citrus and a balanced finish.L&S(Oct 2019)
2018 CHASSAGNE MONTRACHET 1er Cru Morgeot Domaine Fernand & Laurent Pillot
Really well-done, not too massive and there's a sleekness that's almost Puligny-like - mineral even! Morgeot is huge - 65 hectares, the Pillots plots are high-up.Really well-done, not too massive and there's a sleekness that's almost Puligny-like - mineral even! Morgeot is huge - 65 hectares, the Pillots plots are high-up.L&S(Oct 2019)