Characterful Whites
If you enjoy some oak influence in your white wine, then the wines below are where you should be looking. For traditionalists, our selections from Meursault, Chassagne Montrachet, Saint Aubin and Pouilly Fuissé will quickly prove why Burgundy is the spiritual home of great Chardonnay, but there are also some more exotic options available.
Leithakalk from Kollwentz, for example, arguably Austria's most celebrated producer of the grape, will give Chablis a run for its money, Mainqué, made by Jean Marc Roulot but in Patagonia, is the finest Burgundian know-how applied to a fascinating terroir, and Gran Autocton, made from the more exotic Xarel Lo and Malvasia de Sitges, shows how you don't always need Chardonnay to produce these exciting flavours.
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2022 GRENACHE BLANC-VIOGNIER Champs des Lys Domaine La Croix Belle
Côtes de Thongue Languedoc-Roussillon France 13% White
Grenache Blanc, Viognier.
Gorgeously flavoursome with notes of apricot, quince, citrus pith and wild flowers. Mouth-filling but with nice poise and a textured feel, this is a cracking food wine, the depth of stone fruit, piled on top of wild herb...(read more)
L&S2023 GODELLO 'MG' Ribeira Sacra Pazo da Maga
Spain 13% White
Godello.
100% Godello. Vineyards in Quiroga (subzone: Quiroga-Bibei) and Pantón (subzone: Ribeiras do Miño). Slate soils at 300 metres above sea level. Aged for 4 months on its lees. 20,000 bottles. Tasted blind. Expressive God...(read more)
Ferran Centelles, www.JancisRobinson.com2020 GRAN AUTÒCTON BLANC Autòcton Celler
Catalunya Spain 12.5% White
Malvasia de Sitges, Xarel lo.
The top white here is from 50-90 year old vines vineyards, 90% Xarel-lo, 10% Malvasia de Sitges, fermented and aged for 10 months in 300 litre French oak barrels and a small number of amphoras, with weekly batonnage. The...(read more)
L&S2023 LIRAC Cuvée de la Reine des Bois Blanc Domaine de la Mordorée
Southern Rhône Rhône France 14% White
Picpoul, Clairette, Roussanne, Grenache Blanc, Marsanne, Bourboulenc, Viognier.
30% Grenache Blanc, 20% Clairette, 15% Marsanne, 15% Roussanne, 15% Viognier, 3% Picpoul, 2% Bourboulenc. 10% is aged in oak casks. Certified organic (AB Agriculture Biologique) and biodynamic (Demeter). Tasted blind. Me...(read more)
Alistair Cooper MW2022 LEITHAKALK Chardonnay Weingut Kollwentz
Burgenland Austria 13.5% White
Chardonnay.
The 2022 Chardonnay Leithakalk was harvested in the Tatschler, Gloria, Neusatz and Tatterstein vineyards and fermented and aged on gross lees for half a year in large barrel. The nose has the full fruit of yellow plum, r...(read more)
Anne Krebiehl MW, Vinous.com2021 POUILLY FUISSÉ 1er Cru La Maréchaude Clos La Verchère Domaine Daniel Barraud
Mâconnais Burgundy France 13.5% White
Chardonnay.
Deep colour, and powerful too. The citrus is so concentrated there's an extreme intensity which will be worth waiting for. Lots of character - Fab!
L&S2022 MAINQUÉ Chardonnay Bodega Chacra
Rio Negro Patagonia Argentina 13% White
Chardonnay.
Made in collaboration with Jean-Marc Roulot. Aged for 11 months, 46% in barrique (9% new), 36% in stainless-steel tanks and 18% in concrete eggs. No malolactic conversion. Light lemon/gold. Not the most direct nos...(read more)
Oliver Coleman, www.JancisRobinson.com2022 CONDRIEU Roches d'Arbuel Clos de la Bonnette
Northern Rhône Rhône France 13.5% White
Viognier.
2022 Condrieu Roches d'Arbuel - bottled in April 23. Attractive nose, apricot & a touch of greet mango with jasmine, soft floral fruit style, a touch of apricot, peach and a slight hint of satsuma - nice flow of acid...(read more)
L&S2021 CORTON CHARLEMAGNE Grand Cru Domaine Berthelemot
Côte d'Or Burgundy France 13% White
Chardonnay.
From four parcels all in the commune of Pernand, although the largest is on the boundary with Aloxe. Super-pale with a greenish tinge. Builds well on the palate after a delicate start with a touch of hazelnut on the nose...(read more)
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