Cairanne & Lirac
Cairanne
Cairanne is an appellation that attained AOC status as recently in 2015, and shares a similar feel to Rasteau in both geography and wine styles, perhaps that wines of Cairanne have a bit more muscle and rarely struggle for opulence and ripeness. Romain Roche’s big hearty wines based around old-vine Grenache have long been favourite winter reds of Lea & Sandeman customers.
Lirac
Another appellation with a long history having gained AOC status in 1947, and again a region that has struggled for recognition given the ascendency of its neighbour Châteauneuf-du-Pape, a stone’s throw away but a miles away when it comes to the value to be had in Lirac. With Vacqueyras, it is one of the only two Rhône appellations allowed to make all three colours. The whites here can be fascinating.
I recently asked Jérôme Chauvet, cellarmaster at Domaine de la Mordorée, what he likes making the most and, in a beat, he came back with Lirac Blanc. From the first sip it is easy to see why, capturing freshness and energy from Grenache, Viognier, Roussanne, Marsanne and Bourboulenc. The wines from this estate are uniformly excellent.
Domaine de la Mordorée
Started in 1986 by the Delorme family, Domaine de la Mordorée has become one of the top estates in the Rhône, with arguably the most consistent quality. The word 'Mordorée', literally 'bronze' or 'golden-brown' is one of the many poetic names for a woodcock, the symbol of the domaine. Other such names include the cuvée names - 'La Belle Voyageuse' (the beautiful traveller), and 'La Dame Rousse' (the russet lady). Founding winemaker Christophe Delorme's objective was to be unintrusive and maintain total respect for his terroir and the fruit it produces, striving to achieve a perfect balance between concentration, terroir and balance.
The domaine consists of 55 Hectares, on 38 different parcels, providing a rich, wide range of soils and micro-climates. The whole domaine has been certified organic since 2007.
Following Christophe's untimely death in 2015, his wife and daughter, Madeleine and Ambre, have taken on the running of the domaine, ably assisted by Rémy Chauvet, who was the cellarmaster under Christophe. As Jeb Dunnuck has put it in the Wine Advocate, 'the estate is obviously still in incredibly capable hands'.
Ambre Delorme on the 2022 vintage:
‘Stunning in all three colours. With beautiful freshness, remarkable complexity, and exceptional minerality. The wines have a rich and generous aromatic palette with great concentration and balance. It has good aging potential but will bring immediate pleasure.'
2022 LIRAC Cuvée de la Reine des Bois Blanc Domaine de la Mordorée
Very expressive on the nose, bright citrus notes with melon, apple and honey blossom, a green tea floral note too, lots of minerality too, clean and zippy finish, really good and impressive as alwaysVery expressive on the nose, bright citrus notes with melon, apple and honey blossom, a green tea floral note too, lots of minerality too, clean and zippy finish, really good and impressive as alwaysL&S (Oct 2023)
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2022 LIRAC La Dame Rousse Domaine de la Mordorée
2022 Lirac La Dame Rousse 50/50 Grenache Syrah, all in stainless steel Bright raspberry, strawberry and a touch of violet & rose too, big juicy and bright, packed with jammy juicy vibrant fruit,2022 Lirac La Dame Rousse 50/50 Grenache Syrah, all in stainless steel Bright raspberry, strawberry and a touch of violet & rose too, big juicy and bright, packed with jammy juicy vibrant fruit, spice and minerality, very good and drinking now, but give it 6-12 months to round out.L&S (Oct 2023)
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2022 LIRAC Rouge Cuvée de la Reine des Bois Domaine de la Mordorée
2022 Lirac la Reine de Bois, equal parts Syrah Grenache & Mourvèdre, stainless fermentation then barrel aged for 12 months. Darker in colour, the spice is more evident on the nose, a big nose of2022 Lirac la Reine de Bois, equal parts Syrah Grenache & Mourvèdre, stainless fermentation then barrel aged for 12 months. Darker in colour, the spice is more evident on the nose, a big nose of bright violets, dark cherry, damson and plum, deep juicy bramble fruits, sweet violet, raspberry and cassis notes, long long finish, spiced and bright, give this a couple of years and this will be delicious.L&S (Oct 2023)
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Domaine des Escaravailles
Domaines des Escaravailles was established in 1953 by Jean-Louis Ferran and his two sons, Daniel and Jean-Pierre, in the village of Rasteau.
Today it is run by the third generation of the family, Gilles, the son of Daniel. With vineyards on not only the clay, limestone hillsides of Rasteau, but also in Cairanne, Roaix, Villedieu and St Roman de Malegarde. The estate is run organically and everything is done by hand with the wines made in the cellars in the heart of the property in Rasteau.
The estate takes it's name from the Occitan word for the Scarab Beetle, which you will also find adorning the labels of the wines.
Madeline Ferran on the 2022 vintage:
'Rare are the vintages where we start harvesting in August and finish before the end of September. The 2022 vintage was marked by a historic heat wave and drought, but it surprised us in many ways. The white wines combine aromatic freshness and tension, while the reds are deep, balanced and really complex'
2022 CAIRANNE La Boutine Domaine des Escaravailles
100% Grenache, concrete tank from sandy soil Tangy raspberry, cherry, roses, delicate but intense, sappy and grippy, fruit is on the red profile, succulent and deep, with some power and drive,100% Grenache, concrete tank from sandy soil Tangy raspberry, cherry, roses, delicate but intense, sappy and grippy, fruit is on the red profile, succulent and deep, with some power and drive, fresh, complex and long.L&S (Mar 2024)
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