Châteauneuf-du-Pape
Steeped in wine tradition and rich in history, the wines of Châteauneuf-du-Pape are some of the most celebrated in the whole of France, and with some justification. With 18 different grape varieties permitted, it can also lay claim to be the benchmark appellation when it comes to blending.
The first region to be granted an appellation in 1936, it is split into 5 different communes, with the classic galets roulés and red sand being the prized soil types and with the magnificent walled city of Avignon at the heart of things. As ever in the Southern Rhône, Grenache Noir is the key to all great Châteauneuf-du-Pape, ably assisted by a myriad of other supporting grapes Syrah, Mourvèdre & Cinsault, whilst Grenache Blanc & Clairette take centre stage for the extremely underrated whites of the region.
What certainly can be left in no doubt though, is the incredible value some of the wines of this region deliver compared with the more illustrious wines of Burgundy & Bordeaux, a theme that will be recurring throughout this offer.
Domaine de Cristia
Based around Courthezon and taking the name from the lieu dit 'Cristia', Domaine de Cristia was established by Etienne Grangeon in the early 1950s with just two hectares of Grenache. His son Alain joined the domaine in the 1960s. It was Alain who slowly started to increase the vineyard holdings and plant Syrah & Mourvèdre to complement the Grenache that makes up the majority of the estate.
Today the estate is in the very capable hands of Etienne's grandchildren, Baptiste, Dominique and Florent, who joined in 1999. They have nearly 19 hectares based mainly in the sandy soils around Courthezon. All the vineyards have been certified since 2008, with a biodynamic approach also being followed.
The vineyards are mainly northeast facing so benefit from not getting too much hot sun during the early part of the day, with the sandy soils lending freshness and elegance that is the hallmark of their cuvées.
Baptiste on the 2022 vintage:
‘ 2022 was a lovely vintage for us. We had perfect grape healthiness throughout and ended up with good sugar levels and pretty ripe tannins throughout. It was a very quick harvest, as everything achieved ripeness at the same time and it was easy to vinify when we got to the winery too. The wines we are seeing are fresh, deep and balanced. ’
2022 CHÂTEAUNEUF DU PAPE Blanc Domaine de Cristia
Concentrated limes, sappy and bright with lime marmalade and pear drops, a bit of oak but all well integrated, nicely done, very clean and pure. This was the first wine I tasted from bottle onConcentrated limes, sappy and bright with lime marmalade and pear drops, a bit of oak but all well integrated, nicely done, very clean and pure. This was the first wine I tasted from bottle on arrival in the southern Rhone, I was totally taken and my subsequent tasting in the cellars with Baptiste only confirmed my initial impression, that being that this is simply sensational. Sadly, there is very little of it and only 60 bts coming into the UK, so be quickL&S (Oct 2023)
In Bond
2022 CHÂTEAUNEUF DU PAPE Classique Domaine de Cristia
85% Grenache 15% Syrah 10% Mourvedre Aged in concrete, foudre & barrel. Lovely dense sweet raspberry and cherry notes, violets, lovely and really exciting, this will be an absolute charmer and85% Grenache 15% Syrah 10% Mourvedre Aged in concrete, foudre & barrel. Lovely dense sweet raspberry and cherry notes, violets, lovely and really exciting, this will be an absolute charmer and approachable from the off.L&S (Oct 2023)
In Bond
2022 CHÂTEAUNEUF DU PAPE Renaissance Domaine de Cristia
2022 Renaissance 60% Grenache 40% Mourvedre Darker on the nose, sweet & a touch menthol, lovely raspberry and violets, obvious oak but will integrate, will need time to come around, lots to like,2022 Renaissance 60% Grenache 40% Mourvedre Darker on the nose, sweet & a touch menthol, lovely raspberry and violets, obvious oak but will integrate, will need time to come around, lots to like, very generous.L&S (Oct 2023)
In Bond
2022 CHÂTEAUNEUF DU PAPE Vieilles Vignes Domaine de Cristia
2022 Chateauneuf-du-Pape Vieilles Vignes 100% Grenache Super concentrated on the nose, floral perfumed violets, raspberry and dried cranberry, dark cherry too, will need time, very good though,2022 Chateauneuf-du-Pape Vieilles Vignes 100% Grenache Super concentrated on the nose, floral perfumed violets, raspberry and dried cranberry, dark cherry too, will need time, very good though, exciting to see where these go. L&S (Oct 2023)
In Bond
Domaine de la Mordorée
Started in 1986 by the Delorme family, Domaine de la Mordorée has become one of the top estates in the Rhône, with arguably the most consistent quality. The word 'Mordorée', literally 'bronze' or 'golden-brown' is one of the many poetic names for a woodcock, the symbol of the domaine. Other such names include the cuvée names - 'La Belle Voyageuse' (the beautiful traveller), and 'La Dame Rousse' (the russet lady). Founding winemaker Christophe Delorme's objective was to be unintrusive and maintain total respect for his terroir and the fruit it produces, striving to achieve a perfect balance between concentration, terroir and balance.
The domaine consists of 55 Hectares, on 38 different parcels, providing a rich, wide range of soils and micro-climates. The whole domaine has been certified organic since 2007.
Following Christophe's untimely death in 2015, his wife and daughter, Madeleine and Ambre, have taken on the running of the domaine, ably assisted by Rémy Chauvet, who was the cellarmaster under Christophe. As Jeb Dunnuck has put it in the Wine Advocate, 'the estate is obviously still in incredibly capable hands'.
Ambre Delorme on the 2022 vintage:
‘Stunning in all three colours. With beautiful freshness, remarkable complexity, and exceptional minerality. The wines have a rich and generous aromatic palette with great concentration and balance. It has good aging potential but will bring immediate pleasure.'
Domaine de la Vieille Julienne
Under the guidance of Jean-Paul Daumen, this estate on the very northern borders of the Châteauneuf-du-Pape appellation is now considered to be one of the leading domaines. One of the first estates to convert to biodynamic practises when Jean-Paul took over from his father in 1990, the 22 hectares of vineyards are nearly all north facing, giving relieve from the hot summer days and lending the wines the all-important freshness. Attention to detail is everything here, with some very old plots of Grenache, Mourvèdre, Cinsault & Carignan and a wine making style more at home in Burgundy, it is clear to see why it is held in such high regard by journalists, Rhône enthusiasts, sommeliers and restaurateurs around the world.
Trois Sources is from sand-based vineyards on the lower banks of the estate and are the more approachable when young, whilst the Les Hauts Lieux come from the limestone dominated higher vineyards on the northern boundary of Châteauneuf-du-Pape and need more time to come around. In great years a Reserve wine is made in miniscule quantities from ancient Grenache vineyards. This is our second vintage we've offered from Vieille Julienne, and our excitement to be working with and shipping from this excellent domaine is ever growing; these are deeply coloured, pure and aromatic but with incredible freshness - you can buy these confident that they will richly reward patience over the next 8-15 years. They also produce an utterly brilliant Côtes du Rhône called Lieu-dit Clavin, possible the best value Côtes du Rhône in the entire Rhône Valley.
Domaine Jean Royer
Jean-Marie Royer inherited his vines in 1985 and set about improving the grape varietal mix and the vinification from then. Since more than half of the domaine is in unclassified ('Vin de Table') or 'Côtes du Rhône, he has developed a marque 'Le Petit Roy' sold as Vin de Table' for everything that does not make it into the Châteauneuf cuvées. The Petit Roy has always been a big hit in the shops ever since first joining our list.
His Châteauneufs are just gorgeous and offer refreshingly fantastic value for money. He has undoubtedly been much helped his close friend, the late star oenologist Philippe Cambié, who he went to school with and also played rugby with for many years. Cambié was more famous for a full-on rather extracted style, but Jean-Marie imposed his own, fresher, brighter style on all his wines which are crunchy and well-defined, helping cement these elegant expressions of Grenache as some of the finest from Châteauneuf.
Domaine Santa Duc
The name of Domaine Santa Duc has been at the pinnacle of wine in Gigondas since the mid 80’s when, under the firm guidance of the irrepressible and charismatic Yves Gras, they gained international recognition and high scores from wine critics. They have, for some time, been a reference point for quality and style, from one of the most consistently brilliant Crus in the Southern Rhone.
The future of the domaine is now in the very capable hands of Yves' son Benjamin, who becomes the 6th generation of the family to head up the estate. To borrow from Matt Walls ‘Yves Gras and his son Benjamin are very different characters. Yves has the air of a retired East End enforcer, but Benjamin is bookish and jovial’. It would appear from our recent tastings that the estate is in safe hands. Having a respectable CV that boasts stages at Domaine de la Romanée Conti and Vega Sicilia, and visits to nearly every wine producing country in the world, he brings fresh views and ideas, whilst respecting the traditions of his father's work and the past.
The entire 30-hectare estate is now biodynamically farmed and certified, with an emphasis on total respect for nature in the vineyard. They comprise a patchwork of prime vineyard sites in Gigondas totalling 13 hectares, including two brilliant lieux-dits, Les Hautes Garrigues & Clos Derriere Vieille, that bring out the very best expression of Grenache, Syrah & Mourvedre. There is also 6 hectares of prized parcels in Chateauneuf-du-Pape, that have gained high praise in a short space of time. The balance is spread across Vacqueyras and Cotes du Rhone. Nearly all the vines are trained goblet, with a program of Massal selection ongoing to ensure healthy vines from older rootstocks.
The wine making philosophy, like so many now, is as little intervention as possible. Stainless steel fermentation, with a proportion of stems and a short maceration followed by ageing in a mixture of large foudres and terracotta amphorae. The wines are fresh, elegant, pure, dark fruited and long lived although approachable in their youth too. Be in no doubt, these are some of the best wines being made in the southern Rhone.
