2020 Brunello & 2019 Riservas
2020 Brunello
'This is not a vintage to skip... The successful wines of 2020 are absolutely gorgeous.' – Eric Guido, Vinous.com
'Freshness is one of the over-arching characteristics of 2020 and a strength of the vintage. It has been admirably preserved despite the substantial heat accumulation of the growing season. I was also charmed by the generous aromas, seductiveness and immediate accessibility of the wines.' - Monica Larner, RobertParker.com
2019 was easy. 2020 was a little more complicated. It was not outrageously hot, and there was enough water in most parts, but there were some issues with mildew and the usual bothersome things that keep viticulturalists up at night, but all in all the vigilant managed well with the challenges presented. Michaela Morris notes in Decanter that some wines lack depth and structure while others showed signs of simply being picked too late. 'I encourage buying selectively and above all, by producer', she adds.
Eric Guido (Vinous) talks of it being 'a vintage with remarkably high highs and, unfortunately, very low lows', so it is worth being a little choosy. He goes on to say that in some cases 'this variation can be attributed to location', and we would argue that our producers, especially Fuligni and Padelletti, which are in the old heartland of the DOC, on the north-east slopes of the town, are ideally placed, and this comes out in the tasting notes. However he also says that the producers made their own luck for the most part, with constant attention to detail in the vineyards when (in this Covid year) there was little else to do. Giodo 2020, made for the first time in their brand new winery, has been heaped with praise and is a real must-buy. This estate does not make a Riserva, but its Brunello may be considered to be qualitatively at Riserva level: 'Very well-mannered and satin-textured' 18/20 (Jancis Robinson), 'so refined and balanced. Gorgeous' 96 (James Button, Decanter), 'a laudable follow up to Giodo’s charismatic 2019 – and just as gorgeously expressive' 97 (Michela Morris, Decanter), 'contemporary and generous' 96 (Monica Larner, RobertParker.com), 'graceful... with velvety tannins' 97 (James Suckling).
2019 Brunello Riserva
So what about these 2019 Riservas? Well, much as we said last year about the 2019 Brunellos, the Riservas will be the great comparison to the 2016s - in a lusher, more forward, less restrained but still beautifully balanced style. Eric Guido says of the Fuligni 2019 Riserva: 'It’s classic to the core and destined for a long and glorious evolution in bottle. For fans of Brunello who haven’t begun stockpiling Fuligni: what are you waiting for?' Discussing the different styles of the producers, Michaela Morris notes '....Capanna and Padelletti are more elegantly sculpted yet still decidedly firm. When the pendulum finally rests, it lies perfectly centred on Fuligni'. With ageing potential between 10 and 20 years, the vintage’s many successful Riservas will make worthwhile additions in the cellar alongside the annata – and the top examples are worth the extra price.
If you have any questions about the wines or would like to place an order, please email your account manager or privateclients@leaandsandeman.co.uk.
REVIEWS
Michaela Morris – Decanter
2020 vintage rating: 4/5. A hot and dry summer, with nights cooling in September and rain towards the end of the month. Graciously structured, seductive and immediately harmonious wines promise immense pleasure now and over the mid-term.
Monica Larner, – RobertParker.com
I could not be more pleased with 2020 Brunello di Montalcino. I came away from the tasting with two main thoughts: 1. These are the wines I want to drink. 2. This is the vintage Montalcino needed.
Eric Guido – Vinous
...there is another level of undeniably elegant and harmonious wines that soothe the palate and the soul. These wines offer sweet, ripe tannins and cooling acidity with a core of balanced fruit. They are graceful yet complex and impactful.
Fuligni
Founded in 1923 by Giovanni Fuligni, the estate today is co-owned by Robert Guerrini Fuligni and his delightful aunt Maria Flora Fuligni. Roberto works closely with his strong team of Simone Bacconi as agronomist and Daniele Zeffirini as winemaker, with additional technical advice from Federico Ricci in the vineyards, and oenologist father and son Paolo and Jacopo Vagaggini. These are all kept under control by Daniela Perino, who runs the office and commercial side.
The estate covers 100 hectares, of which 14 are under vine, almost all planted with Sangiovese, with a small amount of Merlot for the IGT blend. Most of the land is in a strip on the eastern side of Montalcino, the classic and historical area for the production of Brunello, in localitá Cottimelli. What is important is the combined height of the vineyards (350-440m), the density of planting, age of the vines (14-40) and the 'galestro' soils on which they are planted. Fuligni's wines have reached international recognition for their purity of expression, strong backbone of acidity and polished tannins.
These are simply the finest wines of Brunello, epitomising all that is great from the region. The 'Rosso' now comes from a defined part of the vineyard, on clay and tufa rather than the marl of the Brunello. It is made from the outset as a Rosso, with different clones and the intention to make a wine which will be approachable at a much younger age.
L&S's relationship with Roberto goes back to the mid-nineties. We have always loved the wines here, which combine the concentration and elegance of the best of Brunello. They can be drunk more or less from release, and are so perfectly balanced that they age beautifully. The 'Riserva' releases, made only in the best years, can reward cellaring for decades.
2019 BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO Riserva Fuligni
Fragrant, bitter orange, cherry and plum, balsamic, coffee, sleek, taut and pure with a richly tannic frame, lovely balance and length.Fragrant, bitter orange, cherry and plum, balsamic, coffee, sleek, taut and pure with a richly tannic frame, lovely balance and length.L&S (Apr 2025)
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In Bond
2020 BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO Fuligni
Aniseed, smoked meat, layered red fruits, cherries and damson, balsamic, tobacco and mocha. Quite poised, elegant and fresh, with core of cherry and plum fruit, dark chocolate, coffee and balsamic.Aniseed, smoked meat, layered red fruits, cherries and damson, balsamic, tobacco and mocha. Quite poised, elegant and fresh, with core of cherry and plum fruit, dark chocolate, coffee and balsamic.L&S (Apr 2025)
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In Bond
Padelletti
The Padellettis are one of Montalcino's oldest families, and one with an illustrious past, stretching back into the 13th century at least. In 1529, Giovanni Padelletti, an architect, was given charge of a section of wall and two gates for the defence of the city against the Spanish invaders, and his descendants still own them. Under the Medicis they had to lie low, but by 1576 they are again listed as owning land and vineyards.
From this six hectares they select less than a quarter of the grapes for Brunello, so this is a charmingly small production of the utmost quality. Traditional practices are respected with the winemaking, where the wine is fermented in cement tanks and aged in large Slavonian oak casks in their original cellars in central Montalcino, on Via Guido e Dino Padelletti, right under the family's historic house.
‘Padelletti holds the traditional line in the extreme northeast of Montalcino. Their properties are some of the highest-elevation vineyards in the area (between 400-430 meters) and are insulated by surrounding forests. The wines are always pure representations of vintage and place, communicating a throw-back style without ever coming across as rustic.’
Eric Guido – Vinous.com
2019 BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO Riserva Padelletti
Deep ruby. Perfumed, cool cherry and raspberry fruit with saline hints. Sleek cherry fruit with the perfect dose of gravelly tannins. Lots of structure and cool, succulent fruit aromas on the finish.Deep ruby. Perfumed, cool cherry and raspberry fruit with saline hints. Sleek cherry fruit with the perfect dose of gravelly tannins. Lots of structure and cool, succulent fruit aromas on the finish. Can be approached now but will age gracefully. One of the few truly traditional Brunellos around. Drinking range: 2025 - 2040 Rating: 17.5 L&S (Dec 2024)
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2020 BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO Padelletti
Just mid ruby. Rhubarb, cherry and incense hints and a suggestion of eucalyptus. Increasingly complex with aeration. Shyly fragrant cherry palate that is still embryonic. Chewy tannins that remainJust mid ruby. Rhubarb, cherry and incense hints and a suggestion of eucalyptus. Increasingly complex with aeration. Shyly fragrant cherry palate that is still embryonic. Chewy tannins that remain perfectly underneath the fruit. Truly elegant. Drinking range: 2025 - 2036 Rating: 17++ Walter Speller, www.jancisrobinson.com (Dec 2024)
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In Bond
Podere Giodo di Carlo Ferrini
'Eleganza, eleganza, eleganza' is the mantra of the famed oenologist Carlo Ferrini. Since the first vintage in 2009, this estate has fast become something of a cult classic, immediately amongst the established top Montalcino producers.
Carlo's stellar career started with fifteen years researching Sangiovese clones for the Chianti Classico Consorzio and subsequently he has consulted at some of the greatest estates in Italy. In 2009 he finally put down some roots of his own, putting his full effort and expertise, his heart and soul - into his own winery in Montalcino. Named after his parents 'Giovanna and Donatello' - Giodo is small, just 5.5 Hectares - but perfectly formed.
Carlo spent many years looking for the best spot for his own venture. Just south of the town of Montalcino he found the site for Giodo. South-east facing, gentle slopes in small parcels surrounded by forest, perfectly exposed to the morning and early afternoon sun, and looking out towards Monte Amiata. He planted fifteen different clones of Sangiovese, all selected for their quality of fruit and their low yields, using his earlier experience to select the very best for this site.
The winery itself, it should come as no surprise, is a minimalist work of art and the culmination of Carlo's experience in designing the perfect tool for the job for his clients over the years. The vat room has both stainless steel and concrete vats, and the barrel cellar has a variety of amphorae as well as multiple sizes of barrels.
2020 BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO Podere Giodo di Carlo Ferrini
A more elegant than powerful Brunello here. Intensity and depth to this wine, with a fresh profile of strawberries, red cherries and peonies. A cinnamon note adds a touch of grace. The attack isA more elegant than powerful Brunello here. Intensity and depth to this wine, with a fresh profile of strawberries, red cherries and peonies. A cinnamon note adds a touch of grace. The attack is graceful as well, with velvety tannins, medium to full body, persistent and refreshing acidity and a long, very flavorful finish. Elegant sample. Drinkable now, but it will last for decades with ease. Drinking range: 2024 - Rating: 97 James Suckling, The Wine Spectator (Sept 2024)
In Bond
In Bond
In Bond