Super Tuscans
2021, from which we present here the wines from Le Macchiole, was the thirtieth anniversary of the DOC 'Bolgheri'. Shooting to fame as a site for fine wine thanks to a culture of freedom to experiment and try out grape varieties elsewhere, Bolgheri has much to thank the Incisa della Rochetta family for their pioneering Sassicaia. It was swiftly followed by others, including the Antinoris' Masseto and Ornellaia, and soon was drawing in talent from all over the world, excited by the possibilities that this region offers in terms of climate, sandwiched as it is between the Tyrennhian sea and high hills behind.
In amongst all this rapid evolution, it was local winemaker Eugenio Campolmi of Le Macchiole who spotted the potential for Cabernet Franc 'in purezza', transforming his original blend for his Paleo Rosso into a varietal Cabernet Franc from 2001 - making this release the twentieth. Others have subsequently followed his lead, and Cabernet Franc is now almost as widely planted in Bolgheri as Merlot.
Further up the coast, the two new releases from Castello del Terriccio are well worth a look - the Tassinaia can really be considered as drinking now, but as we have seen with older vintages, it evolves well over several years on it's fine balance. The denser blend, the 'Castello', is full of savoury flavour, an intriguing blend based on Syrah and Petit Verdot.
It seems a little weird to be offering the 'Salita' from Castagnoli in this section, but as a pure Sangiovese it did not until recently qualify for the Chianti Classico DOC. It is likely that future vintages will now be released as Chianti 'Gran Selezione', but in the meantime, here is a supple and sophisticated Chianti of fantastic sophistication and at the quality level of an excellent Brunello. The 2016 vintage gained lots of fans, and this 2019 can only add more.
If you have any questions about the wines or would like to place an order, please email your account manager or privateclients@leaandsandeman.co.uk.
REVIEWS
James Button – Decanter
Bolgheri 2021 vintage rating 5/5. One of Bolgheri’s finest ever vintages, combining vibrant fruit, fresh acidity and ripe tannins with impeccable finesse and poise, showcasing exactly what the territory is capable of. Winter rains ensured that there was sufficient underground water for the vines to access throughout the three-month summer drought.
Antonio Galloni – Vinous
This is a stellar set of 2021s from Le Macchiole. What impressed me most this year is how distinctive the three main reds are. In recent years, proprietor Cinzia Merli and her team have introduced numerous refinements in farming, winemaking and élevage that give the wines a bit more nuance and overall freshness than in the past. Overall, the wines are deep and quite intense... I expect they will be even better with more time in bottle.
Castagnoli
The first mention of Castagnoli was as early as the year 979, when it was an abbey. Centuries later it became the home of a noble Florentine family. The name recalls the previous existence of a chestnut forest.The wines produced here are a true reflection of the hard work that has been undertaken by the current owners, the Shefernacker family, who are also wine producers in Württemberg. They are fully organic, and use some biodynamic preparations and principles, but are not fully biodynamic. Today the vineyard is about 11 ha in production, of which about 4.5 is on the terraces, interspersed with olive trees, planted on soils with a mix of galestro, loam, limestone and schist, at between 360 and 420m. Two-thirds of the total estate is forest which which helps to regulate temperatures.
The vineyard was planted from 1978, and they decided to make narrow stone terraces on a steep south and south-westerly-facing slope. The Sangiovese vines were planted each supported by one stake, like the albarelli of Etna. The current generation may rue this choice as these terraces and the way of training the vines both entail an enormous amount of manual work. However, the quality of the 'Terrazze' Riserva is indisputable.
The cool, high terrain gives elegant, long-ripened Sangiovese, and although they have experimented with other varieties, it is this which really shines here.
The team here is led by Tim Schefernacker (pictured with his young Maremma Sheepdog Lucie), helped by Filippo (winemaker) with Michele, Stefano and Davide in the vineyards and winery.
2019 SALITA Castagnoli
Crushed stone, sweet tobacco, mocha, macerated cherries and plums, balsamic spice. Bold and rich in the mouth, plush macerated woodland fruit core, tobacco, leather, balsamic spice, aniseed and darkCrushed stone, sweet tobacco, mocha, macerated cherries and plums, balsamic spice. Bold and rich in the mouth, plush macerated woodland fruit core, tobacco, leather, balsamic spice, aniseed and dark chocolate.L&S (Aug 2024)
In Bond
Castello del Terriccio
The Castello del Terriccio is beautifully positioned around twenty-five kilometres north of Bolgheri, with commanding views towards Corsica. The 60 hectares of vines enjoy wonderful exposure, overlooking the sea, benefitting from its brightness and cooling breezes. The vineyards are surrounded by 'maquis' and eucalyptus trees, which as well as protecting them, also contribute to the aromas and scents that so characterise the Terriccio wines.
Planted predominately with Cabernet Sauvignon, Sangiovese, Merlot, Petit Verdot and Syrah, the wines are made by consultant oenologist Carlo Ferrini, who has to date brought thirteen 'Tre Bicchiere' awards to the estate.
These are wines that can be approached almost immediately and yet age so well over a decade and more.
The estate continues in the hands of Vittorio Piozzo di Rosignano Rossi di Medelana who took over after the extraordinarily charming Cav. Gian Annibale Rossi di Medelana Serafini Ferri (or 'Pucci' as he was fondly known) who died at the end of 2019. Vittorio has the same team around him working in the cellars and the vineyards and the estate is going from strength to strength.
Le Macchiole
Initially put onto the wine map by Eugenio Campolmi in 1983, the Le Macchiole estate has been run by his wife Cinzia since 2002. With 22 hectares of vineyard over much of the best soils of the region these are, along with the Sassicaia and Ornellaia's vineyards, also among the oldest and most established vines in Bolgheri. Their careful selection of grape varieties and cultivation techniques according to climate and soil has led them to concentrate on Merlot, Syrah and most importantly Cabernet Franc, a variety which can express itself so well in the hands of Le Macchiole. All of their wines are marked by a unique and unmistakable character. Full bodied wines, and yet with clean and elegant flavours, leading to great freshness and finesse, they are incredibly sought after world-wide. The estate has been organic since 2002, and they are experimenting with biodynamics.
Le Pupille
Le Pupille is located in the Maremma, in the South of Tuscany and the estate covers 75 hectares under the DOCG of Morellino di Scansano. Considered as the appellation's leading property, the estate produces eight wines with its most famous wine, Saffredi, launched in 1987 by owner Elisabetta Gepetti and consultant winemaker Giacomo Tachis. Elisabetta's belief in the quality of the vineyards of the Maremma and her determination to bring them to a wider audience has been instrumental in the emergence of both Morellino di Scansano as an appellation - with elevation to DOCG as recently as 2006 - and Le Pupille as an internationally-acclaimed winery
Tenuta dell'Ornellaia
Tenuta San Guido Incisa della Rocchetta
