2017 Burgundy | Tasting Trip Day Three

by Edward Richardson


Another star-studded day yesterday. If anything, the bar was raised a notch, and not just because of a certain cellar in Gevrey Chambertin…

In Morey, we were very impressed by the selection from Lignier-Michelot. The Rue de Vergy, Faconni猫res and Clos Saint-Denis were very fine indeed. Also from Morey was a very polished, pure and beautifully balanced Clos de Lambrays. Here they are changing the bottles back to the pre-war diameter of 17mm (from 18.5mm), which is apparently easier to do than source larger corks of the right quality. It鈥檚 all part of an extensive study conducted by the domaine into the causes of premature oxidation and inconsistent ageing. They鈥檝e splashed out on a detailed geological survey too. Boris Champy joked that finally, after 800 years, the domaine now know what they鈥檙e doing!

Both these tastings were very impressive but Morey鈥檚 star in 2017 surely belongs to St茅phane Magnien. His Faconni猫res was absolutely outstanding, as were his Chambolle Sentiers and Clos Saint-Denis. The signature delicacy of the domaine was complemented by some extra volume and impressive freshness in this vintage. In fact, the wines came astonishingly close to matching the lofty heights of 2016. No wonder St茅phane was in a cheerful mood.

Anne Gros鈥檚 tasting is always much anticipated. The wines here have an enchanting grace and florality. 2017 was no different but there is a slightly more gourmand feel on the palate in this vintage. Her Richebourg was a cut above, as was her Clos Vougeot (yet another impressive showing from this slightly maligned grand cru in 2017).

At completely the opposite end of the stylistic spectrum sits domaine Dugat-Py (Lo茂c Dugat is pictured above). As ever, we had very high expectations but even these were surpassed. Interestingly, there seems to be an extra accessibility here in 2017, which is primarily, though perhaps not entirely, the result of the vintage – time will tell. None of the wines have lost any of their hallmark concentration, intensity or energy. The persistence on the palate is nothing sort of extraordinary and each cuv茅e was impeccably defined. It鈥檚 almost impossible to pick favourites but the Coeur de Roy, Petite Chapelle, Charmes and Mazis will linger long in the memory.

A few final appointments tomorrow and then we shall wave goodbye to Burgundy for another year.

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