BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO
2007 Riserva Fuligni
|Sub-district||Brunello di Montalcino|
2007 was that fantastic ripe year in Tuscany, the 2007 'straight' is impressive for its weight and concentrated richness, leading me to expect the 2007 Riserva would be massive and rather atypical, but this is just not the case, it's as though they saved all the finesse of the vintage for this cuvée, so that it is precise, scented with blonde tobacco (very distinctive), and on palate completely seamless, delicate and yet with soaring power and complexity. Very very impressive and really just utterly gorgeous. I think it will go on and on, but say 2016-2025++? L&S (Mar 2017)
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We reviewed this very fine Brunello di Montalcino two-and-a-half years ago, giving it 94 points, but we thought it would be interesting to see how it's developed – and logically enough it's now a much more relaxed and savoury experience, the 'autumnal undergrowth' character we identified back then now moving more into focus, but that deliciously à point fruit concentration still evident in the squirt of juicy red cherry fruit. A fine wine that will continue to improve for at least another decade. Rating: 94 www.thewinegang.com (Mar 2017)
When we reviewed this Riserva a couple of years ago, we were struck by its elegance, particularly from a full-bodied, ripe vintage. We were just as struck this time. There's no shortage of power and intensity in the sweet, dried red-berry and autumnal undergrowth flavours and no shortage of tannin for the future, but there's a finesse that lifts this to another level. Rating: 94 www.thewinegang.com (Oct 2016)
Mature, evolved ruby. Lots of complexity and herbs and tar. Real intensity and wonderful lift. Great to have the chance to taste such a mature example. Really quite rich for Fuligni! Bittersweet memories of visiting here with the late Patrick Sandeman. Drinking range: 2015 - 2030 Rating: 17.5 Jancis Robinson MW OBE - www.JancisRobinson.com (Sep 2016)
The finest 2007 Brunellos from high ground, like this one, balance ripe and savoury hawthorn berries with intense and very clearly defined, slim tannins. Brilliant. Drink 2014 - 2022 Rating: 96-96 Monty Waldin (Sep 2014)
Mid ruby with narrow orange rim. Hints of tobacco leaf, but otherwise quite backward on the nose. Not so on the palate. Quite full bodied with dense, mouthfilling fruit. Big. 2013-2020 Rating: 16.5 Walter Speller, www.jancisrobinson.com
Like Conti Costanti next door, Fuligni has made a fantastic 2007 Riserva, suggesting that the vintage conditions really suited this classic corner of Montalcino. This is a denser wine than the Costanti, with powerful, yet integrated tannins, notes of truffle, autumn leaves and mushrooms and plenty of ripe fruit. It’s a powerful wine all right, but it has remarkable grace and persistence, too. Drink: 2017-28 Rating: 96-96 Tim Atkin MW, www.timatkin.com
Fuligni's 2007 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva captures the richness of the vintage while maintaining plenty of classicism in its structure. Tar, smoke, tobacco, savory herbs and incense emerge from the exotic, highly expressive bouquet. Layers of red fruit build effortlessly through to a deeply resonant finish. The 2007 has wonderful richness, but at the same time, it is clearly holding back some of its significant potential. Overall, this is one of the best of the 2007 Riservas. 2014-2027 Rating: 94+ Antonio Galloni, www.vinous.com
Founded in 1923 by Giovanni Fuligni round a Medici villa and a country convent of the Renaissance era, the Fuligni estate today is co-owned by Robert Guerrini Fuligni and his delightful aunt Maria Flora Fuligni. Together with his aunt, Roberto makes the wines with oenologist Paola Vagaggini, while agronomist Federico Ricci looks after the vineyards.
The estate covers 100 hectares, of which 25 are under vine, almost all planted with Sangiovese, with a small amount of Merlot for the IGT blend. 4 plots, Semiti, San Giovanni, Ginestreto and Cotimeli produce Sangiovese for the Brunelli and Rosso and each vineyard is kept separate during fermentation.What is important is the combined height of the vineyards (350-440m), the density of planting, age of the vines (12-30 plus) and the 'galestro' soils on which they are planted. Fuligni's wines have reached international recognition for their purity of expression, strong backbone of acidity and polished tannins.
These are simply the finest wines of Brunello, epitomising all that is great from the region. The 'Rosso' now comes from a defined part of the vineyard, on clay and tufa rather than the marl of the Brunello. It is made from the outset as a Rosso, with different clones and the intention to make a wine which will be approachable at a much younger age.
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