BOLLINGER
2008 RD Extra Brut Champagne Bollinger
Grapes | Pinot Meunier, Pinot Noir, Chardonnay |
Colour | White |
Origin | France, Champagne |
ABV | 12% |
29% chardonnay, 71% pinot, as is typical for La Grande Année and R.D.; from 18 crus, mainly Aÿ and Verzenay for pinot and Le Mesnil-sur-Oger and Cramant for chardonnay; fermented entirely in barrels; aged 14 years on lees on cork; ‘1846’ bottle for the first time; disgorged 28 October 2022; 8.3g/L TA and 6gL malic acid at harvest (cf 4g/L in 2002), one of the most acidic vintages in recent decades;3g/L dosage; originally disgorged June 2018 as La Grande Année after 9 years on lees with 8g/L dosage; cork
One of the greatest Bollingers of the modern era has returned for a glorious encore! Even on its first outing as La Grande Année at more than a decade of age, I wrote that it was not nearly ready to be unleashed yet, and demands at least as long again before daring to approach. The house considered not releasing it, but rather holding the full production back for release as R.D. Instead they held back 30–40 percent rather than the usual 10 percent, making for what must be the most significant R.D. release yet. La Grande Année was only in the market for 11 months (compared with two years normally) to provide more stock for R.D. The R.D. 2008 will be in the market for three years, with newly disgorged batches released each year.
An additional four years and four months on lees represents a 50% increase on the ageing regime of La Grande Année. The house has done well to widen the gap (for R.D. 2002 it was only three years), and 2008 demands this more than any other vintage of the modern era. The house has even hinted that it might hold some 2002 and 2008 back for a third release 7-10 years after R.D. ‘For me, 2008 is the new 1928!’ says Denis Bunner.
Returning for a rousing encore at nigh-on fifteen years of age, there is still a radiant brightness to the medium straw hue that heralds Bollinger. The vast panorama of complexity on wide and expansive display has ratcheted up just one more click from its riveting first appearance as La Grande Année. Meanwhile, it has shed nothing of its shuddering energy and riveting precision. A vibrant flash of 2008 acidity as stark as high noon sunshine illuminates a breathtaking plain of pure white chalkfields as far as the eye can see, mouth filling and as intricately detailed as Bollinger has ever conjured. Pinot noir assumes a stance that perfectly straddles the deep, reverberating complexity that Bollinger assumes of the southern Montagne de Reims grand crus, while upholding incisive freshness and purity that spans red cherries, strawberries, fig, brioche, golden fruit cake, ginger and layers of glorious spice. Chardonnay heightens its energy, lemon zest brightness and chalk mineral exactness. It holds a full 30 second finish. A vintage for the extreme long game, whether you cellar it as La Grande Année or as R.D., this is a cuvée to hold out on until at least 2033, and it shows every promise of maintaining its riveting, captivating beauty until it turns 50.
Tasted in 2023 Rating: 98 Tyson Stelzer - The Champagne Guide (Jul 2024)
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This focused Champagne is all about the graceful definition of power, with an up-front, austere edge to the steely acidity, which is softened by the fine, plush mousse and well-integrated with the rich profile. Toasted hazelnut, crystallized honey, peach skin and nectarine flavors expand on the palate, accented by hints of ground ginger, oyster shell and preserved lemon, with a racy streak of salinity that drives the mouthwatering finish. Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. Disgorged October 2022. Drink now through 2038. Drinking range: 2023 - 2038 Rating: 97 Alison Napjus, The Wine Spectator (Oct 2023)
(“R.D.” stands for recently disgorged; this starts as a Grand Année and is allowed to mature for an extra 8 to 20 years, sometimes more, 71% pinot noir, 29% chardonnay, 18 crus are blended together, mostly Aÿ and Verzenay for pinot noir and Le Mesnil-sur-Oger and Cramant for chardonnay, disgorged Oct. 2022, SRP $440, 3 g/L). Here too the slightly more expressive nose is wonderfully complex with its aromas of citrus peel, yeast, acacia and a vague hint of red fruit, in particular strawberry. There is excellent volume and richness to the full-bodied flavors as the long aging on the lees is very much in evidence on the moderately dry, powerful and equally complex finale. For my taste this is largely mature and while it will hold for several more decades, I don’t see much if any further upside development potential. Drinking range: 2023 - Rating: 94 Allen Meadows, www.Burghound.com (Oct 2023)
This beautifully sparkling 2008 is surprisingly light in colour, but will surely deepen towards more golden tones in the near future a little further from its fresh disgorgement date. The colossal and wonderful scent is of such dignity that words can never do it full justice. If I do try to describe this unique perfume, it is dominated by hazelnut cream from Piedmont, Domori chocolate from Venezuela, madeleine cookies, almond paste, wood sauna, gunpowder, grilled beef, duck liver, honeysuckle, mushroom cream, honey and nougat. It takes a long time in the glass before the fruit appears and at the same time the nutty and grilled aromas tone down a bit. The taste is vibrantly fresh while being rich and grilled nutty. Here, minerality and sea aromas such as iodine and oyster shells show up together with an apricot-like sublime fruitiness. After a fresh attack, my senses are left supremely satisfied with an exemplary long aftertaste of honey. Rating: 97 Richard Juhlin (Mar 2023)
Champagne Bollinger
Jacques Bollinger, who was born at Ellwanger in the Kingdom of Wurtemberg, came to Champagne in 1822. In 1829, together with Hennequin de Villermont and Paul Levieux Renaudin, he founded the Champagne House of Bollinger Renaudin at Ay. The Bollinger family have managed the House ever since. Despite Paul Renaudin dying without issue, his name remained on the label until the 1960's. Pehaps the most famous member of the Bollinger family was "Lilly" Bollinger who married Jacques' great grandson and took over the Company when he died in 1941. She is responsible for the famous quote "I drink it when I’m happy and when I’m sad. Sometimes I drink it when I’m alone. When I have company I consider it obligatory. I trifle with it if I’m not hungry and drink it when I am. Otherwise, I never touch it—unless I’m thirsty" Except in the very best vintages, only the first pressings are used (the rest being sold off) and Bollinger still carry out first fermentations in oak. Bollinger own around 160ha of vineyard which account for about 60% of their requirements. They are planted to about 60% Pinot Noir.
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