BOLLINGER

29% chardonnay, 71% pinot, as is typical for La Grande Année and R.D.; from 18 crus, mainly Aÿ and Verzenay for pinot and Le Mesnil-sur-Oger and Cramant for chardonnay; fermented entirely in barrels; aged 14 years on lees on cork; ‘1846’ bottle for the first time; disgorged 28 October 2022; 8.3g/L TA and 6gL malic acid at harvest (cf 4g/L in 2002), one of the most acidic vintages in recent decades;3g/L dosage; originally disgorged June 2018 as La Grande Année after 9 years on lees with 8g/L dosage; cork

One of the greatest Bollingers of the modern era has returned for a glorious encore! Even on its first outing as La Grande Année at more than a decade of age, I wrote that it was not nearly ready to be unleashed yet, and demands at least as long again before daring to approach. The house considered not releasing it, but rather holding the full production back for release as R.D. Instead they held back 30–40 percent rather than the usual 10 percent, making for what must be the most significant R.D. release yet. La Grande Année was only in the market for 11 months (compared with two years normally) to provide more stock for R.D. The R.D. 2008 will be in the market for three years, with newly disgorged batches released each year.

An additional four years and four months on lees represents a 50% increase on the ageing regime of La Grande Année. The house has done well to widen the gap (for R.D. 2002 it was only three years), and 2008 demands this more than any other vintage of the modern era. The house has even hinted that it might hold some 2002 and 2008 back for a third release 7-10 years after R.D. ‘For me, 2008 is the new 1928!’ says Denis Bunner.

Returning for a rousing encore at nigh-on fifteen years of age, there is still a radiant brightness to the medium straw hue that heralds Bollinger. The vast panorama of complexity on wide and expansive display has ratcheted up just one more click from its riveting first appearance as La Grande Année. Meanwhile, it has shed nothing of its shuddering energy and riveting precision. A vibrant flash of 2008 acidity as stark as high noon sunshine illuminates a breathtaking plain of pure white chalkfields as far as the eye can see, mouth filling and as intricately detailed as Bollinger has ever conjured. Pinot noir assumes a stance that perfectly straddles the deep, reverberating complexity that Bollinger assumes of the southern Montagne de Reims grand crus, while upholding incisive freshness and purity that spans red cherries, strawberries, fig, brioche, golden fruit cake, ginger and layers of glorious spice. Chardonnay heightens its energy, lemon zest brightness and chalk mineral exactness. It holds a full 30 second finish. A vintage for the extreme long game, whether you cellar it as La Grande Année or as R.D., this is a cuvée to hold out on until at least 2033, and it shows every promise of maintaining its riveting, captivating beauty until it turns 50.

Tasted in 2023 Rating: 98 Tyson Stelzer - The Champagne Guide (Jul 2024)