2009 Vigneto Rocche Andrea Oberto
More evolved as you would expect, balsamic, floral, cherries, meat, liquorice, very measured and quite elegant. Palate has elegant tannic structure, meat, cherries, damson and liquorice, lovely acid structure, balsamic notes on the finish. L&S (Nov 2015)
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If you only buy one wine this Christmas… make it a good one. There is a generosity to the 2009 barolos that makes it possible to drink them now but when they smell as good as this you could spend a long time with your nose in the glass. There are wafts of rosewood, mace, red cherries, balsamic and dried roses, and the tannins are beginning to melt. Victoria Moore, The Daily Telegraph (Nov 2016)
Aged in barrique, 20% new. Has that same sweetness as the Brunate just tasted but more leathery and a bit more dried fruit, though it is still scented on the mid palate. More undergrowth here, autumn leaves but still a scented sweetness. Complex and very long. Drinking range: 2017 - 2030 Rating: 18 Julia Harding MW, www.JancisRobinson.com (Nov 2015)
The typically pale colour of this fine single vineyard Barolo is deceptive in that the inviting cherry and gamey fragrance of the Nebbiolo grape leads to an elegantly fruited wine shot though with smoky notes, sweet cherries and the savoury richness of sun-dried tomato, all the while with a sinewy succulence and beautifully defined, seamless finesse. Rating: 93-93 www.thewinegang.com (Oct 2014)
Reflecting the personality of the year, the 2009 Barolo Vigneto Rocche is quite rich, ample and broad-shouldered. The heat of the final part of the growing season has baked out some of the typical Rocche nuance, but in exchange readers will find a textured Barolo that will drink well right out of the gate. Hints of espresso, smoke, anise and incense add complexity on the dramatic, inviting finish. 2014-2024 Rating: 92 Antonio Galloni, www.vinous.com
Good medium-deep red. Very ripe, musky, exotic aromas of plum, coffee and chocolate. Suave, silky and fine-grained, with good sweetness and a juicy quality to its red fruit and menthol flavors. Finishes with ripe tannins and very good rising persistence. The standout among these 2009s today. Rating: 92 Stephen Tanzer's International Wine Cellar
Chocolate, black cherry, ripe floral lift. Not so interesting and complex as their Albarella though. Much more restrained and tight. 2018-2030 Rating: 17 Richard Hemming - www.JancisRobinson.com
A balanced and delicately fruity Barolo with a solid core of fine tannins. Medium to full body, finely polished tannins and a pretty finish. Better in 2015 Rating: 93 James Suckling, www.jamessuckling.com
A balanced and delicately fruity Barolo with a solid core of fine tannins. Medium to full body, finely polished tannins and a pretty finish. Better in 2015. Rating: 93 James Suckling, www.jamessuckling.com
A small family run business based in La Morra, over sixteen hectares of vineyards and producing ten wines. The Barolos come from a production area encompassing eleven towns, including the famous 'crus' of Brunate, Rocche, and Albarella. The wines are beautifully focused and age well, although immensely approachable in their youth.
In the words's of Fabio Oberto:
"The Andrea Oberto winery’s origins are humble in fact everything began in 1959 when my grandfather bought a farmhouse in La Morra. At that time the farmers could not survive with just one crop, therefore, my grandfather earned a living growing peaches, grapes and raising cows. However in the family business there was enough work for everyone and this is the reason why my father, Andrea, when he became adult, decided to leave his family in order to start working for a big company as truck driver. Andrea came back to La Morra just in 1978 when his father died. He inherited the family’s land and he began managing the farm. Over the years wine has become a popular product and this encouraged many farmers, like Andrea to focus solely on vine growing. At the beginning part of the grapes was sold to cooperatives and another part was transformed into wine which was sold bulk to private customers. Devoting all of his time and energies in order to realize his dream, Andrea transformed a small farm into a wine company with sixteen hectares as well as a wine production of 100.000 bottles of prestigious wine which today is sold worldwide."
To some Barolo represents the very pinnacle of Italian wine. The majestic ethereal character appeals to the senses in a similar way to red Burgundy, even if the style of the wines is utterly different. This is the intense and seductive world of Nebbiolo, where solid tannins vie unexpectedly well with delicate fruit, and where age unwinds ever more complex flavours. Contrast in this case a trio each from the traditional Podere Luigi Einaudi and the slightly more open style of Andrea Oberto. Whilst the straight Barolo Andrea Oberto and the Terlo from Luigi Einaudi might be intended for slightly earlier drinking, nothing in this case won't benefit from a little more age.
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