CHÂTEAU DOISY DAËNE
2009 2ème Cru Classé Barsac
|Classification||2ème Cru Classé|
Not a massive wine, and indeed seems light and not very sweet compared to the big guns, but very very pretty. Bright beeswaxy, citrus fruit, a hint of pineapple, lovely acidity and trace of warm butter, a long citrussy lemon-butter finish. Rating: 92 L&S (Apr 2010)
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(a blend of 87% semillon and 13% sauvignon; 14% alcohol; 130 g/l r.s.; pH 3.85) Full yellow-gold color Flamboyant aromas of apricot, candied lemon peel, pear juice, ginger and smoky oak. Glyceral, fat and exotic, with tropical fruit, honey and spice flavors of great richness. If anything, this gained in texture and concentration as it opened in the glass, displaying emerging hints of wasabe and vanillin oak. Finishes wonderfully pure, spicy and long, with compelling sweetness. Rating: 91-93 Ian d'Agata - Stephen Tanzer website
The proportion of Sauvignon Blanc is much higher in 2009 – it’s normally closer to 5% – but it’s added an extra dimension to Denis Dubourdieu’s fine wine. The sweetness (150 grams) and 14% alcohol are balanced by grapefruity, almost thiollike notes. This is fresh and tangy with a hint of crème brûlée, well-handled oak and a finish that lingers on the palate. 10+ years Rating: 95 Tim Atkin MW, www.timatkin.com
Denis Dubourdieu has provided one of the genuine stars of the vintage with the Chateau Doisy-Daene, two, if you count his Extravagance. This has a very fragrant nose with apple blossom, lime leaf and a touch of honey. Very fresh and lifted...spring-like. The palate is very well balanced, not a powerful Sauternes but ethereally poised and focused, skipping blithely to an animated pear, honeysuckle and apricot finish. Very pretty, very complete and very outstanding. Rating: 96-98 Neal Martin, www.vinous.com
Château Doisy Daëne
Barsac Deuxième cru 1855 As one might expect, there was originally one Doisy estate. Sometime in the earlier 19th Century, it was divided into three parts - the larger part became Doisy-Vedrines, and two smaller parts became the rarely encountered Doisy-Dubroca and, the part purchased by Jean-Jacques Emmanuel Daëne, Doisy-Daëne. Jean-Jacques' sons later sold another portion of Doisy-Daëne to Doisy-Dubroca. Georges Dubourdieu bought Doisy-Daëne in 1924, and his family still own it to this day. The little over 16ha of vineyard sit sandwiched between Châteaus Coutet and Climens, and are planted with 87% Semillon, 12% Sauvignon Blanc and 1% Muscadelle. The Grand Vin is fermented in stainless-steel, but aged in wood, producing a style that is finer and cleaner than many other wines of the region. It would sit easily alongside the Premier Crus from the area, making Doisy-Daëne a sort of Barsac "super-second". In better vintages, a super-cuvée - L'Extravagant de Doisy Daëne - that rivals Yquem is produced from very late-picked grapes. Pierre Dubourdieu (Georges' son) was not so much interested in the classic dessert wines of the region as dry wines and under his stewardship, in 1949, Doisy-Daëne became the first Sauternes/Barsac producer to make a dry white. This 100% barrel-fermented Sauvignon Blanc is still produced in small quantities, although the modern generation place more appropriate emphasis on the sweeter end of the spectrum.
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