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2013-CHÂTEAU-PICHON-LALANDE-2ème-Cru-Classé-Pauillac

CHÂTEAU PICHON LALANDE

2012 2ème Cru Classé Pauillac

Colour Red
Origin France, Bordeaux
Sub-district Haut Médoc
Village Pauillac
Classification 2ème Cru Classé
ABV 13%

New director here - Nicolas Glumineau who was at Montrose. He was interesting about how the direction at Pichon is different to many Pauillacs. "Many properties are looking for more and more Cabernet, but for us there are great 'feminine' Merlots, which are an important part of Pichon Lalande. We have great terroirs for great Merlot." And yes, it is true that they do have Merlot planted on some very good terroirs, while many properties have relegated Merlot to the secondary, cooler, or later-ripening plots, as Merlot normally ripens earlier. Initially quiet nose, then spice, attack intense, there's a real core here, saline with fine tannins, nearly dries but the salinity gives appetising freshness. Tight and quite lean, pencil notes, the fruit more savoury than it is fruity. Sweet with blackcurrant tart notes even though the fruit is closed. It has the shape of a classic Pichon Comtesse of the eighties - a welcome return - supple and elegant but with underlying power. Rating: 93+ L&S (Apr 2013)


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Medium ruby in colour, less intense towards the edge of the rim, suggesting a touch of evolution. This shows vanilla and sage spice, crushed dark cherries, with a mid palate dominated by velvety but still firm and present tannins. A wave of fresh acidity comes in on the finish and supports a rolling out of vanilla and sweet spices. The vintage profile is identifiable in the weight of the body, and the sweeter, drinkable style of the wine. 55% new oak, first year with Nicolas Glumineau as director (overseeing blending but not viticulture), with 50% 1st wine in production, harvest October 1-18. Drinking range: 2022 - 2040 Rating: 94 Jane Anson, Decanter (Nov 2022)

The 2012 Pichon-Lalande has a rather musky bouquet at first, juniper and mint infusing the black fruit, not quite translating the essence of Pauillac as well as others, though still attractive. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins, fleshy and silky smooth. There is a veneer of high quality oak here, quite plush on the finish yet at the same time, nicely controlled. Good potential, though I would like to see improvement aromatically. Tasted twice at Bordeaux Index's Ten Year-On tasting and blind at the Southwold Ten-Year On tasting. Drinking range: 2022 - 2038 Rating: 91 Neal Martin, www.vinous.com (Sept 2022)

Ruby red, with sweet fruit on the nose, both enticing and fragrant. Grilled cedar and smoked caramel, this is expertly judged in its use of oak, balanced but with a richness that runs right through the palate. Grip and flecks of cocoa bean, graphite, cracked pepper, saline crackers make this is welcoming and gourmet. Can begin drinking with a carafe, will not outlive the most concentrated vintages of Comtesse, but absolutely no rush to get going. One of the wines of the tasting. Today's director Nicolas Glumineau did the blend of this vintage but didn't follow the vines through the growing season. Rating: 96 Jane Anson, www.janeanson.com (Mar 2022)

Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande

Pauillac Deuxième cru 1855 Facing Château Latour across the road, at the southern end of Pauillac, are the twin Château Pichons. Originally one estate, the two were divided in 1850 on the death of Joseph Pichon. His son Raoul inherited the title of Baron de Longueville and the vineyards of Château Pichon Longueville Baron de Longueville, whilst his daughters inherited the portion that became Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande. The only daughter to produce off-spring was Marie-Laure who had married Comte Henri de Lalande in 1818 and it was her descendents, therefore, who shaped the future of Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande (or Pichon Comtesse as it is often more conveniently known). The two estates continued to be run as a single vineyard for another ten years, allowing them jointly to be awarded 2nd Growth status in 1855. Pichon Comtesse is now owned by the Rouzard family, owners of the Champagne house of Louis Roederer. Under the ownership of May de Lencquesaing in the final quarter of the 20th Century, the vineyard area of Pichon Comtesse grew from around 40ha to today's 75ha. The vines are 45% Cabernet Sauvignon, 35% Merlot, 12% Cabernet Franc and 8% Petit Verdot. Fermentation takes place in stainless steel, with the wine spending 18 months in wood (50% new). Pichon Comtesse produce one of the most highly regarded second wines - Réserve de la Comtesse - which rivals many other estate's grand vins. The healthy reputation that Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande enjoys puts it clearly in the mould of a "super second" - those 2nd Growth estates who's wines merit comparison with the Premier Grand Cru Classés. Pichon Comtesse has had the better of comparisons with its sibling Pichon Baron whose fortunes waned during the 20th Century even if, today, they are on a more equal footing. It is inevitable that the two Pichons will be compared with one another, with Comtesse being a more subtle seductive wine than its slightly foresquare namesake.

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