CHARMES CHAMBERTIN

2014 Grand Cru Domaine Joseph Drouhin

EN PRIMEUR

Mild reduction renders the nose difficult to read so I would suggest decanting this if you’re tempted to try a bottle in its youth. There is by contrast good freshness and verve to the lightly mineral-inflected and well-detailed medium weight flavors that possess a fine sense of energy on the clean, slightly austere and saline-infused finish. This is prettier than it is deep though this too should repay cellaring it for 10 to 12 years. 2024+ Rating: 92 Allen Meadows, www.Burghound.com (Apr 2016)

75cl bottles (wood case of 6)

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(Drouhin replaced one of its suppliers in 2014): Saturated bright, dark red. Musky aromas of raspberry, rose petal and smoked meat display some funky underbrushy reduction. Then pure, bright and concentrated but backward in the mouth, showing a serious tannic backbone for aging. Very promising for this bottling chez Drouhin. Rating: 91-92 Stephen Tanzer, www.vinousmedia.com (Jan 2016)

There’s a little bit of reduction on this wine, made with purchased grapes from two parcels. It’s juicy, attractive and supple, showing fine tannins, sweet bramble and summer berry flavours. The oak is well integrated and the reduction should disappear before bottling. Drinking range: 2019 - 2026 Rating: 95 Tim Atkin MW, www.timatkin.com (Jan 2016)

Joseph Drouhin, founded in 1880 and still family owned, are one of the most well-respected names in Burgundy, especially through their flagship wine, the iconic Clos des Mouches.

A huge part of the Drouhin production comes from their own domaine fruit (78 hectares), and much of the rest comes from contracts such as that with the Marquis de Laguiche, who shook hands with the grandfather of the current generation, agreeing to let him manage his vineyards which included an important part of Le Montrachet; this collaboration endures. Today, the fourth generation is at the helm

Small refinements continue to be made here. The presses have been changed - a reversion to basket pressing for the reds, and for whites the presses are open - along with a number of other growers they are following the trend to think that slight oxidation of the juice before fermentation is not a problem and may add complexity as well as avoiding later problems of premature oxidation in bottle.

For the reds there has been the introduction of selective whole-bunch fermentation in the Côte de Nuits wines. The house style remains one that 'emphasises the natural elegance of great Burgundies' as they describe it. The domaine is all cultivated with an organic and biodynamic approach.