2014 1er Cru Fonteny Domaine Huguenot
|Sub-district||Côte de Nuits|
As so often this year the step up the Premier Cru sis marked. A deep richness. Dark fruit, sweetness and mass, a really pretty excitying premier Cru. Big with black fruit but good tension too. Drinking range: 2018 - L&S (Nov 2015)
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Subtle wood notes do not materially detract from the otherwise more elegant and slightly more complex aromas of dark currant, Gevrey-style earth, spice and underbrush. There is good vibrancy and richness to the more voluminous medium-bodied flavors that exude a fine bead of minerality on the focused, intense and delicious finale. While here too there is touch of acidity poking through at present, I suspect that as the flavors broaden it will integrate more completely. Drinking range: - 2022 Rating: 89-91 Allen Meadows, www.Burghound.com (Jan 2016)
The Huguenots can trace their history in Marsannay and working in the vines back to 1789. Currently the domaine is run by Philippe. His father Jean-Louis expanded the domaine from five to twenty-two hectares (twelve in Marsannay, six in Fixin, and four in Gevrey) before handing over the reins. Philippe took the bold step of taking all twenty-two hectares into organic production (the conversion was completed in 2010), but immensely sadly he was forced to do a single non-organic treatment in 2016, because of the terrible conditions, so he was back to square one - three years to re-qualify for the organic label - but this should be in place for 2020. Philippe was initially unsure if he would try for the certification again - but for all that is not planning to change the way he works - it is, he assures us, better for him and the environment and and his workers as well as for quality, and the domaine will continue along organic lines.
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