2015 Serraboella Cigliuti
Deeper more concentrated, plum, cherry, herbs and spices, almost a touch meaty/savoury. Really rich in the mouth with thick plum and cherry fruit, earthy, savoury with spice and liquorice on the long finish. L&S (Apr 2019)
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Neive. Tasted blind. Deep ruby with orange tinges. Rich, complex cherry nose. Plentiful, sweet dark cherry on the palate supported by grainy tannins. Intense and long and embryonic. (WS) Drinking range: 2022 - 2032 Rating: 17.5 Walter Speller, www.jancisrobinson.com(May 2019)
Light to mid ruby. More spicy than the Vie Erte, smells more youthful in its peppery red fruit. And a more stony/mineral coolness. Lovely dry finesse and freshness on the palate. Still embryonic but all in harmony. Dry, chalky, really like sucking stones on the finish. Drinking range: 2020 - 2032 Rating: 17 Julia Harding MW, www.JancisRobinson.com(Apr 2019)
Black currant, black cherry, violet, earth, mineral and tobacco aromas and flavors highlight this expressive and densely textured red. Despite the grip, there is an elegance too, and a long, energetic finish. Drinking range: 2023 - 2040 Rating: 94 Bruce Sanderson, The Wine Spectator(Jan 2019)
Sisters Claudia and Silvia Cigliuti took over the running of this vineyard from their father Renato. He was the first member of the family to begin bottling his own wine, back in 1964, roughly the same time as other pioneers in the region like Giacosa, but the family can trace its roots on this land back to the late eighteenth century.
Most of the vineyard and the winery is on the Serraboella hill, looking over Neive from the east, and it is the Barbaresco Serraboella which is the flagship wine of the estate. This hill, composed of calcareous marl and tufa soils, gives classic wines which combine the textural finesse of clay and the length and longevity of wines from limestone. The vineyards are tended by the family, by hand, with low yields to ensure full ripeness every year.
It is often lazily asserted that if Barolo is the King of Piedmontese wines Barbaresco is the Queen; which can unfairly suggest Barbaresco as the lesser of the two - it certainly isn't - and suggests a more feminine style to Barbaresco - which is rather hard to discern in reality. It is more in the way of a dual monarchy - two Kings, or Queens if you prefer, both can be big, both can be highly seductive. This is the intense and sensual world of Nebbiolo, where solid tannins vie unexpectedly well with delicate fruit, and where age unwinds ever more complex flavours. In this case we have a brace of wines from Cigliuti, wines that are surprisingly open in relative youth but offer much promise for the future; and a trio from the butch solid grippingly tannic world of Sottimano which cry out for a cool dark cellar and some patience.
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