2015 Rouge Goujonne Domaine Hubert Lamy
|Sub-district||Côte de Beaune|
Olivier felt that 2015 was like 2005, so he tried to use lots of whole bunch in the reds - 70% in this. No sulphur until first racking. There's a lovely freshness and purity to the fruit, a sweetness and floral touch, with decent texture and supple ripe tannins. Drinking range: 2019 - L&S (Nov 2016)
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Rating: 89 Tim Atkin MW, www.timatkin.com(Jan 2018)
(from a 1.06 ha parcel planted in 1950). Once again there is a really lovely freshness to the nose that offers up distinctly pepper and earth-suffused aromas of similar dark currant and smoked meat nuances though here there is more spice. There is even better volume to the more powerful and slightly denser middle weight plus flavors that culminate in a sappy finish that delivers very fine depth and length for a villages level Chassagne. This should also drink reasonably well young yet easily repay mid-term cellaring. Drinking range: - 2022 Rating: 89-91 Allen Meadows, www.Burghound.com(Apr 2017)
The 2015 Chassagne-Montrachet Rouge La Goujonne comes from 65-year-old vines in the middle of the village and is 50% de-stemmed. I appreciate the purity and finesse on the bouquet here - certainly less rustic than other Chassagne rouges. The palate is well balanced with fine tannin, redcurrant and cranberry fruit with a structured, slightly stemmy finish that shows fine clarity. This is a well-crafted, quite delicious red Chassagne-Montrachet from Olivier Lamy. Drinking range: 2017 - 2023 Rating: 88-90 Neal Martin, www.vinous.com(Dec 2016)
Domaine Hubert Lamy
Olivier Lamy has built on the solid foundations his father Hubert prepared with twenty years and more of work in the vineyards. Today the Domaine has 18.5 hectares of vines - 80% are Chardonnay and 20% Pinot Noir. The vines are in several appellations - Saint-Aubin, Puligny-Montrachet, Chassagne-Montrachet and Santenay, as well as the excellent Bourgogne Blanc. The reputation of the domaine is now made, but the Saint Aubins, both red and white, remain some of the bargains of Côte d'Or, and challenge the supposed superiority of the grander village names on a regular basis, both in terms of young and mature wines.
Olivier's wine-making style and preference is to emphasise the fresh and the mineral side of his wines, and in 2016 and 2017 there was no new wood at all, and that is with the wines in 600 litre demi-muids rather that the classic Burgundy (225 litre) fût. Certainly Oliver's whites do have an arrow-like purity and intensity, and seem to age completely straight and true.
The reds are worth more than a casual mention too. Olivier has been getting some consultation help from Sylvain Pataille, and the wines have energy and bounce along with the supple tannins and ripeness.
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