2016 Vieilles Vignes Les Crays Domaine Daniel Barraud
From Cask. This is immediately more from the earth than the Verchere. A solid feel of hard limestone, underpins the generously weighted fruit. Pure, stony and focused. Nice leaner fruit element. This is firm in contrast, almost austere - but there is so much to admire. Drive, shape, intensity. And a nice layer of softer stuff, some sweet pear flesh to keep it rolling. L&S (Oct 2017)
*Case price discount: Mix any 12 bottles (or 9l equivalent) of wine or 6 bottles of Champagne, Spirits or Fortified to get the 'case price' for each bottle.
(from 60+ year old vines located in Vergisson). A pungent nose once again combines phenolic notes with those of wood and a background hint of reduction. Otherwise there is impressive size, weight and density to the broad-shouldered flavors that are almost chewy thanks to the abundant amount of dry extract, all wrapped in an intensely mineral-driven and attractively dry finish that also flashes a sour-sweet nuance. At least some patience will be beneficial in order to develop more complexity. Worth a look. 2021+ Rating: 91 Allen Meadows, www.Burghound.com(Oct 2018)
Notes of citrus zest, white flowers and almond paste introduce the 2016 Pouilly-Fuissé Les Crays Vieilles Vignes, a medium to full-bodied, elegantly textural wine with lovely tension and vertical line, along with all the depth and concentration that Barraud's wines so routinely attain. It isn't as rich and full-bodied as La Verchère, but it's finer-boned and more precise. Drinking range: 2018 - 2028 Rating: 93 William Kelley, The Wine Advocate(Aug 2018)
(from 60+ year old vines located in Vergisson). This too reflects malolactic fermentation aromas today. There is impressive size, weight and density to the broad-shouldered flavors that are almost chewy thanks to the abundant amount of dry extract, all wrapped in an intensely mineral-driven finish. At least some patience will be beneficial in order to develop more complexity. Worth a look. Drinking range: 2021 - Rating: 90-92 Allen Meadows, www.Burghound.com(Jan 2018)
Spicy and rich and with better brightness than their Sur La Roche, but it still tends towards the fuller side, verging on overripe on the finish. Drinking range: 2018 - 2022 Rating: 16.5 Richard Hemming MW - www.JancisRobinson.com(Jan 2018)
(from a steep, rocky, south-facing vineyard featuring one-third 45-year-old vines and the rest between 15 and 20): Pale yellow. Very ripe but subtle aromas of orange, lemon drop, yellow peach, smoke and stone. A big, rich, broad wine with lovely ripe stone fruit and mineral flavors and an impression of sucrosité buffered by lively acidity and chewy extract. A touch more exotic than the Verchère Vieilles Vignes, hinting at banana. Chewy in texture and more open-knit than the Verchère Vieilles Vignes but this is a larger wine. In fact, it conveys an almost syrupy quality from the sun along with the buffering influence of chalk. There was no hail here and the Barrauds produced at least 50 hectoliters per hectare, according to Julien. Rating: 90-92 Stephen Tanzer, www.vinousmedia.com(Dec 2017)
Domaine Daniel Barraud
Daniel and Martine Barraud, now joined by their son Julien, have vineyards in Vergisson that are mostly high up under the famous rock (Vergisson lies between the two dramatic cliffs of the rocks of Solutré and Vergisson). The vineyards here are significantly higher than those of Fuissé, and are consequently later-ripening, and the wines often have a more solid structure - but all of Daniel's wines have their own character, from the Puligny-like directness of the La Roche to the fat richness of the 'en Buland', via the mineral force of the Crays.
All the wines are made keeping close to the tenets of bio-dynamics - not as Daniel says for the sake of it - but because over the generations experience has taught them these principles really are the best way forward - as such they only ever bottle on a waning moon, All the wines see some barrel ageing apart from the Chaintré, which is aged in foudre (2/3) and tank.
As Allen Meadows wrote in 2014 in Burghound "I have said this before, but I will say it again: no one makes better wine in the Mâconnais than Barraud. There are a few domaines that produce wines that are sometimes just as good, ... but none of them surpasses the quality he consistently produces. If you aren’t familiar with the wines, you owe it to yourself and your pocketbook to check them out." (www.Burghound.com).
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