Tasted from Cask. More amplitude here than the Macons. Surprisingly broad and serious. Great mouthfeel. Nice acidity. Ripe Grapefruit and warm pineapples, soft spices - rich middle. But still not fat. Oak just gives a dark edge, a shadow of structure. Nicely tamed and balanced. But biggish and solaire. L&S (Oct 2017)
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(from vines in Davayé). A very pungent nose consists of strong phenolic notes that are cut with smoke and oak toast though the latter element is admirably subtle. There is good verve and more evident minerality to the medium-bodied flavors that possess excellent mid-palate concentration as well as sneaky good length on the slightly edgy, indeed even mildly clipped finish.Allen Meadows, www.Burghound.com(Oct 2018)
The 2016 Saint-Véran En Crèches was also showing well, exhibiting aromas of honeyed peaches, spring flowers and a classy top note of mint. On the palate, it's full-bodied, chewy and concentrated, with a tight-knit core and an almost phenolic sense of structure. Like the Mâcon-Vergisson La Roche, this is fermented and matured in barrels, but these soils are richer in clay, which helps to explain the wine's density and mid-palate weight. Drinking range: 2018 - 2026 Rating: 90 William Kelley, The Wine Advocate(Aug 2018)
(from vines in Davayé). Firm reduction renders the nose unreadable today. Otherwise there is good verve and better minerality to the medium-bodied flavors that possess excellent mid-palate concentration as well as sneaky good length on the slightly edge finish. This is showing somewhat awkwardly at present but the underlying material appears to be such that the finish will ultimately harmonize. My predicted range offers the benefit of the doubt. Drinking range: 2019 - Rating: 88-91 Allen Meadows, www.Burghound.com(Jan 2018)
Cooked apple sauce, some sweet spices and nicely grippy palate to give shape. Dry, smooth, full. Drinking range: 2017 - 2021 Rating: 16 Richard Hemming MW - www.JancisRobinson.com(Jan 2018)
(barely half of a normal crop was made here; done entirely in fûts and demi-muids, including one new demi-muid): Pale, green-tinged yellow. Sexy mineral-tinged aromas of ripe citrus fruits, lime blossom and subtle herbs. Very ripe, full wine with captivating sweetness and palate-saturating texture. But firm acidity and underlying minerality energize the middle palate and give the wine cut. Finishes broad, dry and classic. Incidentally, Julien Barraud noted that the 2007 version of this wine is tasting great right now. Drinking range: 2017 - 2023 Rating: 90 Stephen Tanzer, www.vinousmedia.com(Dec 2017)
Domaine Daniel Barraud
Daniel and Martine Barraud, now joined by their son Julien, have vineyards in Vergisson that are mostly high up under the famous rock (Vergisson lies between the two dramatic cliffs of the rocks of Solutré and Vergisson). The vineyards here are significantly higher than those of Fuissé, and are consequently later-ripening, and the wines often have a more solid structure - but all of Daniel's wines have their own character, from the Puligny-like directness of the La Roche to the fat richness of the 'en Buland', via the mineral force of the Crays.
All the wines are made keeping close to the tenets of bio-dynamics - not as Daniel says for the sake of it - but because over the generations experience has taught them these principles really are the best way forward - as such they only ever bottle on a waning moon, All the wines see some barrel ageing apart from the Chaintré, which is aged in foudre (2/3) and tank.
As Allen Meadows wrote in 2014 in Burghound "I have said this before, but I will say it again: no one makes better wine in the Mâconnais than Barraud. There are a few domaines that produce wines that are sometimes just as good, ... but none of them surpasses the quality he consistently produces. If you aren’t familiar with the wines, you owe it to yourself and your pocketbook to check them out." (www.Burghound.com).
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