Zesty lemon and tangerine are tinged with chalk dust on the nose. To the accompaniment of white peach, the citrus fruits turn surprisingly juicy and generous on the palate, which is notable also for its almost caressing silkiness. This is Morstein with a generosity, almost a youthful charm, that I don’t recall from past installments. A judicious measure of dissolved CO2 underscores the wine’s sense of energy as well as (again, surprising) buoyancy. Its chalkiness and sheer density come back on the finish as palpable pithiness, but generous juiciness prevails for rewarding refreshment, while an influx of marine salinity stimulates the salivary glands. Too bad that Wittmann reports nearly a third less Morstein this year than usual, not so much attributable to the rigors of the growing season as to the decisions made about which lots to choose and how much to declassify into the village-level bottling. Drinking range: 2018 - 2026 Rating: 93-93 David Schildknecht, www.vinousmedia.com (May 2018)
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The smokiest and spiciest Wittmann's 2017 riesling GG. Shows enormous depth and yet, it remains cool and poised. A super long and mineral finish with a delicate creaminess that balances the bright acidity exactly. An amazing achievement, considering the hail damage occurred just weeks before the harvest. Though the quantity was much lower than normal, there is no doubt that this is a masterpiece. Better from 2020. Made from biodynamically grown grapes. Rating: 97-98 James Suckling, www.jamessuckling.com(May 2018)
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