CHARMES CHAMBERTIN

2017 Aux Charmes Grand Cru Domaine Thibault Liger-Belair

Grapes Pinot Noir
Colour Red
Origin France, Burgundy
District Côte d'Or
Sub-district Côte de Nuits
Village Gevrey Chambertin
Classification Grand Cru
ABV 13%
Vineyard Charmes Chambertin

Thibault Liger-Belair's Charmes-Chambertin comes from the Aux Charmes climat, close to Chambertin. Made with 70% whole bunches (with the central stem removed) and 100% new wood, this is fresh, sappy and very aromatic, with subtle wood, some clove and white pepper spice and good underlying minerality and tension, as the French like to say. Drinking range: 2025 - 2030 L&S (Nov 2018)


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(from Charmes proper; 70% whole cluster but without the central stem). Soft reduction is enough to overshadow the fruit but not the subtle floral elements. Otherwise there is once again very good energy to the delicious and seductively rich medium-bodied flavors that possess a lush mouthfeel before concluding in a markedly saline-inflected and mildly austere finish. Drinking range: 2024 - Rating: 89-92 Allen Meadows, www.Burghound.com (Jan 2019)

The 2017 Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru contains more than 70% whole cluster fruit, from the lieu-dit of Aux Charmes, that suffers a lot of millerandage. It has an expressive, overtly floral bouquet with both violets and iris infusing the dark cherry and boysenberry fruit. The palate is medium-bodied with quite grippy tannin and firm backbone, à la Mazoyères, although I would like a little more precision and mineralité toward the conservative finish. Give this two or three years in bottle. Drinking range: 2022 - 2040 Rating: 91-93 Neal Martin, www.vinous.com (Jan 2019)

Domaine Thibault Liger-Belair

Thibault Liger-Belair has two hectares in Les Saint Georges, the vineyard which gives Nuits the rest of its name, and 60 ares out of a total of 4 hectares of the Grand Cru Richebourg, as well as a good holding in the Clos Vougeot and some well-placed village wines. The vineyards are a good start, but it is Thibault himself who has catapulted this domaine straight into the very top echelons of Côte de Nuits domaines from his first vintage (2002). Thibault was trained as an oenologist but first worked as a wine buyer. He has come to wine making with a wide experience of wine buying, and has had the advantage of having discussed wine-making for many years, with the benefit of his oenological background, with some of the best winemakers of the world. Viticulture is biodynamic (since 2005), yields low but not ludicrously low, everything is pragmatic, so that he should be doing just what is necessary and no more. He uses 40-50% new wood maximum. The wines are bright, pure, focused, aromatic and elegant without lacking anything in the way of stuffing.

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