CHÂTEAU CANTENAC BROWN
2017 Cru Classé Margaux
The 2017 Cantenac Brown feels a little disjointed on the nose, not quite as ripe as its peers with moderate fruit intensity. There is just a little greenness that nags away in the background. The palate is medium-bodied with firm, quite grippy tannins. This is a structured and more masculine style of Cantenac Brown, although it manages to deliver plenty of finesse towards the finish and there is commendable length. I would just like a little more charm by the time of bottling. Tasted on three occasions. Drinking range: 2020 - 2032 Rating: 89-91 Neal Martin, www.vinous.com (May 2018)
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Deep greyish crimson. Deeply inviting aroma of pure cedary cassis and just a touch of vanilla. Classic bordeaux flavours on the palate, with dark fruit, a hint of graphite and a little oak sweetness. Lightish, fresh and harmonious, Light tannins, but a little bit dilute and herbaceous on the finish. Drinking range: 2022 - 2030 Rating: 15.5 Julia Harding MW, www.JancisRobinson.com (Apr 2018)
With a larger proportion of Cabernet Sauvignon this year, the blend is 67% Cabernet Sauvignon and 33% Merlot. Deep garnet-purple in color, the 2017 Cantenac Brown leaps from the glass with exuberant notes of cassis, warm plums and black forest cake with touches of violets, dark chocolate, cloves and cigar box plus a waft of lavender. The palate is medium-bodied and firm with fine-grained tannins and tons of freshness, finishing with plenty of black fruit and perfumed layers. Rating: 90-92 Lisa Perrotti-Brown, RobertParker.com (Apr 2018)
The dial is just a little more turned-up here compared to most Margaux this year, but it works. Subtle charred oak notes are evident on the nose, with tight, savoury cassis and bilberry running through the mid-palate without dipping at all. It ends well, with a breadcrumb trail of carefully placed fruits. Nobody is going to call this broad-shouldered or a fruit bomb, but it is successfully expressed and really elegant, with layers of flavour. It's a wine that should be lovely to open in around eight years, so a little earlier than usual, but with good ageing potential. Drinking range: 2024 - 2038 Rating: 92 Jane Anson, Decanter (Apr 2018)
The deep, inky-colored 2017 Château Cantenac Brown is beauty that shines in the vintage. Black and blue fruits, plenty of violets, charcoal and spice, medium body, and ripe tannin all make from a beautiful, charming, balanced Margaux that will drink nicely for 15-20 years. Rating: 89-92 Jeb Dunnuck, www.jebdunnuck.com (Apr 2018)
This is a very pretty cabernet sauvignon with currants, raspberries and blueberries. Bright and vivid. Medium to full body, firm and silky tannins and a fresh and clean finish. Rating: 92-93 James Suckling, www.jamessuckling.com (Apr 2018)
A bright savory streak leads off here, offering fresh cassis and bitter plum fruit flavors. A tangy mineral note runs through the finish. A pure and elegant wine that should fill out a bit more with the élevage. Rating: 89-92 James Molesworth, The Wine Spectator (Apr 2018)
From this much-improved estate, this wine has a rather dark nose of smouldering oak, with a slightly sauvage, gamey and minty note to the fruit, with all that charred oak character batting it down. It feels nicely textured at the start, then a little looser in the middle, with a charming suppleness and relaxed character. There are appealing velvety-rich tannins giving it some grip, without the unripe bitterness sometimes encountered in this vintage, and a fresh acid bite. It culminates in a short and pithy finish. For the appellation, in this vintage, this is a good effort. Rating: 90-92 Chris Kissack, www.thewinedoctor.com (Apr 2018)
Château Cantenac Brown
Margaux Troisième cru 1855 In 1754 Jacques Boyd, who was of Irish descent, bought the estate that he would call, quite logically, Château Boyd. In 1806 he sold to a John Lewis Brown, of Scottish descent and the owner of Château Brown (in Pessac-Léognan). Some confusion then arises as the Cantenac property was also often referred to as Château Brown. Some grand parties followed at the newly-built tudor-style mansion before bankruptcy forced the sale of the estate in 1843. By the time of the 1855 classification, it was once again known as Château Boyd. Some time during the 19th Century, a portion of Château Boyd was divided off and, under the ownership of Armand Lalande (who also owned Château Leoville Poyferré), the impressive and unusual château that adorns the label was built and the name Cantenac-Brown was settled upon. The remainder of the estate went on to become Château Boyd-Cantenac. The period from the end of the 19th Century to the latter half of the 20th is a familiar story of decline. Salvation appeared when AXA Millésimes bought Cantenac-Brown in 1989, and they made great improvements to the estate, so it was a surprise when they sold to a British businessman Simon Halabi in 2006. The Cantenac-Brown rennaissance continues, however, under the new ownership. The 42ha of vineyard, farmed "in a more environmentally friendly way", are composed of 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot and 5% Cabernet Franc. The Grand Vin spends 12 to 15 months in wood, of which 50% is new and the other 50% one year old. There is a second wine - BRIO de Cantenac Brown.