MEURSAULT
2017 1er Cru Charmes Domaine Rémi Jobard
The last time Remi produced a Charmes was in 2011 - he then grubbed up his parcel and re-planted. So the vines are just back on stream and producing impressive fruit. Despite the youth this has superb matter to it. There is good lick and grainy grip to the core - and it is fully-loaded with flavour. Cox's apple and nice, warm lemon flesh. Concentrated and intense. This my be young, but is impressively broad with fruit and texture. This is full of youthful exuberance and delivers well. Remi has a well-placed plot in Charmes-Dessus. Charmes is always quite generous and broad - but the Dessus as opposed to the Bas plots always have more acidity and balance. Drinking range: 2021 - 2028L&S (Nov 2018)
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(from young vines). A decidedly smoky nose displays aromas of both citrus and mineral reduction that are cut with soft spice and a whiff of the exotic. The appealingly rich and generously proportioned middle weight flavors possess a succulent and caressing mouth feel that carries over to the delicious and sneaky long finish. This is really quite good for the young-ish vines but it can’t match the Genevrières for either depth or class. Drinking range: 2024 - Rating: 91 Allen Meadows, www.Burghound.com (Jun 2019)
A cuvée produced from younger vines ideally situated just below Grivault's Clos des Perrières, Jobard's 2017 Meursault 1er Cru Les Charmes unfurls in the glass with an attractive bouquet of pear, ripe waxy lemon rind, white flowers and honeycomb. On the palate, the wine is medium to full-bodied with lovely depth, concentration and chewy dry extract, balanced by tangy acids. Of all the wines in the Jobard cellar, this was the easiest to read when I tasted it. Rating: 92-94 William Kelley, The Wine Advocate (Jan 2019)
This vineyard was taken out in 2011 and replanted in 2014 and this is the first vintage. This is ripe and juicy and really rather good - very young vines just 4 years old. 35hl/ha Zesty and pure and straight. Maybe lacks a little density, but has plenty of energy. Vigourous.Sarah Marsh MW, The Burgundy Briefing (Dec 2018)
Domaine Rémi Jobard
Rémi has been making small qualitative changes ever since he took over here in 1996. The entire vineyard is cordon-pruned, so yields are naturally limited. There has been no use of fertiliser since 1994, and the vineyard is grassed-over to encourage the vine roots to go deep. The domaine has been certified organic from 2008. He says that the two most important things are the absence of weedkiller (and thus the necessity to plough, which cuts any surface roots and makes the vine go deeper) and not adding any fertiliser which again makes the roots go deeper to find nutrients.
Rémi has two vast presses, to enable him to press very slowly over six hours, and this has resulted in a big jump in finesse. The élevage now lasts nearly fifteen months, so as to allow the wines to develop slowly and to avoid fining. As a result these are wines which take a moment to show, but which reward the patient with complexity and great depth of flavour.
Rémi made a move from traditional barrels to foudres made of a mix of French, Austrian and Slavonian oak, constructed by Austrian cooper Stockinger, and having added a new one (or two) each year, there's barely a normal barrel left. He likes the way the wines develop in these large volumes, in which the 'oaking' effect is minimised.
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