2017 Vieilles Vignes En Buland Domaine Daniel Barraud
En Buland is like La Roche with a touch of la Verchère, and then more than either of them. Big and bold on the palate after a shy and retiring nose. Savoury, saline and voluminously ripe too. Intense all the way through, the most complete of all, and very long. Drinking range: 2022 - 2030 L&S (Nov 2018)
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(65+ year old vines near Solutré that face north east). There is a phenolic component (think olive oil character) to the petrol and softly wooded nose. There is a wonderfully textured and sleek mouth feel to the delicious and nicely delineated yet rich flavors that offer fine complexity and persistence on the reasonably well-balanced finale where the only (very) minor flaw is a hint of warmth. Drinking range: 2025 - Rating: 91 Allen Meadows, www.Burghound.com(Jan 2020)
Lively and with more than a whiff of excitement and racy minerality. Lightly bitter note on the end. Drinking range: 2020 - 2026 Rating: 16.5 Jancis Robinson OBE MW - www.JancisRobinson.com(Jan 2019)
The 2017 Pouilly-Fuissé Vieilles Vignes En Buland offers crushed gravel, dried flower and honeysuckle on the nose, which is backward at first but soon finds its voice and gains intensity. The palate is well balanced, with weight and amplitude, and quite spicy relative to the Les Crays, offering white pepper and just a hint of curry leaf. The finish feels focused, although I discern a little more complexity on the Les Crays at the moment. Still, this is certainly worth checking out. Drinking range: 2020 - 2030 Rating: 91 Neal Martin, www.vinous.com(Jan 2019)
Domaine Daniel Barraud
Daniel and Martine Barraud, now joined by their son Julien and daughter Anaïs, have vineyards in Vergisson that are mostly high up under the famous rock (Vergisson lies between the two dramatic cliffs of the rocks of Solutré and Vergisson). The vineyards here are significantly higher than those of Fuissé, and are consequently later-ripening, and the wines often have a more solid structure - but all of Daniel's wines have their own character, from the Puligny-like directness of the La Roche to the fat richness of the 'en Buland', via the mineral force of the Crays.
All the wines are made keeping close to the tenets of bio-dynamics - not as Daniel says for the sake of it - but because over the generations experience has taught them these principles really are the best way forward - as such they only ever bottle on a waning moon, All the wines see some barrel ageing apart from the Chaintré, which is aged in foudre (2/3) and tank.
As Allen Meadows wrote in 2014 in Burghound "I have said this before, but I will say it again: no one makes better wine in the Mâconnais than Barraud. There are a few domaines that produce wines that are sometimes just as good, ... but none of them surpasses the quality he consistently produces. If you aren’t familiar with the wines, you owe it to yourself and your pocketbook to check them out." (www.Burghound.com).
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