2017 Vieilles Vignes Les Crays Domaine Daniel Barraud
Pale after the 'La Verchère', quite a shy nose, then great purity. Volume and a supple delicate fresh liquid touch - lemon and ripe yellow citrus lifts it - energy and mineral purity are the keynotes. Immensely long. Drinking range: 2021 - 2028 L&S (Nov 2018)
*Case price discount: Mix any 12 bottles (or 9l equivalent) of wine or 6 bottles of Champagne, Spirits, Sweet Wine or Fortified to get the 'case price' for each bottle.
The 2017 Pouilly-Fuissé Vieilles Vignes Les Crays offers one of the most enticing bouquets from Barraud, featuring delicate rose water, fresh pear and waxy aromas, all complex and involving. The fresh, focused palate is well balanced with a fine bead of acidity and more grip and density on the finish compared with the Sur La Roche. Excellent. Drinking range: 2020 - 2032 Rating: 92 Neal Martin, www.vinous.com (Jan 2019)
Tucked under the imposing rock of Vergisson, this vineyard goes up to 400 metres, making it one of the higher sites in Pouilly-Fuissé. Like many of the wines from cooler spots, this has performed very well in 2017. The 20% new oak adds some vanilla sweetness, complementing the fresh, crunchy citrus and stone fruit flavours. Drinking range: 2019 - 2023 Rating: 93 Tim Atkin MW - Decanter (Dec 2018)
(from 60+ year old vines located in Vergisson). A softly exotic array reflects notes of white peach, dried apricot, passion fruit and a pretty floral component. On the palate there is once again an attractive mouth feel to the solidly concentrated and opulent medium weight flavors that brim with dry extract while delivering fine length on the citrusy if mildly warm finale. 2021+ Rating: 90-92 Allen Meadows, www.Burghound.com (Oct 2018)
Domaine Daniel Barraud
Daniel and Martine Barraud, now joined by their son Julien and daughter Anaïs, have vineyards in Vergisson that are mostly high up under the famous rock (Vergisson lies between the two dramatic cliffs of the rocks of Solutré and Vergisson). The vineyards here are significantly higher than those of Fuissé, and are consequently later-ripening, and the wines often have a more solid structure - but all of Daniel's wines have their own character, from the Puligny-like directness of the La Roche to the fat richness of the 'en Buland', via the mineral force of the Crays.
All the wines are made keeping close to the tenets of bio-dynamics - not as Daniel says - for the sake of it, but because over the generations experience has taught them these principles really are the best way forward - as such they only ever bottle on a waning moon. The Domaine is working toward organic certification. All the wines see some barrel ageing apart from the Chaintré, which is aged in foudre (2/3) and tank.
As Allen Meadows wrote in 2014 in Burghound 'I have said this before, but I will say it again: no one makes better wine in the Mâconnais than Barraud. There are a few domaines that produce wines that are sometimes just as good, ... but none of them surpasses the quality he consistently produces. If you aren’t familiar with the wines, you owe it to yourself and your pocketbook to check them out.' (www.Burghound.com).
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