2017 1er Cru La Garenne Domaine Joseph Colin

Grapes Chardonnay
Colour White
Origin France, Burgundy
District Côte d'Or
Sub-district Côte de Beaune
Village Puligny Montrachet
Classification 1er Cru
ABV 13%
Vineyard La Garenne

Garenne is high on the slope, in the hamlet of Blagny. While it ripens well, it always remains a 'tonique' style, with a slight citrus skin bitterness. 'The vintage makes little difference here - it's pretty much always like this - but it needs to be ripe, like Vide Bourse. I try to pick it over 13%', says Joseph. Pale bright silvery-gold. Good straight nose with mineral and citrus, fat and complete on the palate, very well-defined crystalline feel, the subtle citrus core giving a nice balance and length. Drinking range: 2020 - 2028 L&S (Sep 2018)

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Aromas of lemon oil, green apple and iodine are framed by light reduction, introducing the 2017 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru La Garenne, a medium to full-bodied, tangy wine with an elegantly textural attack that segues into a tight-knit mid-palate and a pure, stony finish. This is one cuvée I suspect might have improved with more time on the lees, but there's plenty to admire nonetheless. Drinking range: 2018 - 2028 Rating: 90 William Kelley, The Wine Advocate (Jan 2019)

Light nose for the moment. Lots of polish and intensity on the palate. Almost painful chiselling of fruit. Quite long. Drinking range: 2022 - 2030 Rating: 16.5+ Jancis Robinson OBE MW - www.JancisRobinson.com (Jan 2019)

The 2017 Puligny-Montrachet La Garenne offers punchy, spicy aromas on the well-defined nose, hints of curry leaf and orange cordial developing with time in the glass. The well-balanced palate is quite saline with a fine bead of acidity, a gradual build and convincing grip towards the finish. This is another excellent contribution from Joseph and Virginie Colin. Superb. Drinking range: 2021 - 2035 Rating: 93 Neal Martin, www.vinous.com (Jan 2019)

Domaine Joseph Colin

Joseph Colin is one of the four children of Marc Colin (the others being Pierre-Yves, Damien and Caroline), who had a large domaine with vines in Saint Aubin, Santenay, Chassagne and Puligny. Pierre-Yves left the family domaine in 2005 and since then Joseph was an important member of the team there. After making a token 1800 or so bottles on his own account in 2016, he started in earnest with 2017, with seven hectares of vines, from which he makes an astonishing nineteen different cuvées.

Most of the vines he has in Saint Aubin are young, but by limiting bunches to six or seven per vine, he manages to control the yields. With plenty of time to learn his craft at Domaine Marc Colin, he has developed into a confident winemaker. He experimented with sulphur levels in the wines at the family domaine, so coming to his current view that the wines should be left the longest time possible without added S02, perhaps adding some at racking, but if he feels there's still enough C02 after racking, he will not even add any at that stage, so as to develop 'wine at its purest', but he is keen to say also that he has no standard recipe - he will adapt to each wine. In 2018 he again used no S02 until just before bottling, but he's clear that if there's some botrytis, for example, he will add it earlier. Genarally nothing is either fined or filtered.

Joseph is a very bright new prospect for lovers of precise, pure white Burgundies with fresh acidity for crystalline definition.

In 2018 Joseph picked over more than three weeks, starting on the 26th August and not finishing the last plots until the 20th of September.

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