SAINT AUBIN

2017 1er Cru Clos de la Chatenière Domaine Hubert Lamy

Grapes Chardonnay
Colour White
Origin France, Burgundy
District Côte d'Or
Sub-district Côte de Beaune
Village Saint Aubin
Classification 1er Cru
ABV 13%
Vineyard Clos de la Chatenière

The 2017 Saint-Aubin Clos de la Chatenière 1er Cru is showing a little too much oak on the nose, offering touches of white peach and dried honey and a slight resinous note; beeswax emerges with aeration. The palate is well balanced with a touch of tangerine peel and peach, though it is missing some mineralité and tension on the finish. Returning to it after 10 minutes, it does develop salinity, which bodes well for future development. Tasted blind at the annual Burgfest tasting in Savigny-lès-Beaune. Drinking range: 2022 - 2032 Rating: 91 Neal Martin, www.vinous.com (Aug 2021)


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Wafting from the glass with a gently reductive bouquet of toasted bread, iodine, white flowers and crisp orchard fruit, Lamy's 2017 Saint-Aubin 1er Cru Clos de la Chatenière is medium to full-bodied, layered and precise, with fine depth at the core, chalky structuring extract and a bright, delicately honeyed finish. Drinking range: 2022 - 2045 Rating: 93 William Kelley, The Wine Advocate (Jan 2021)

The 2017 Saint-Aubin Clos de la Chatenière 1er Cru has an intriguing undergrowth and bell pepper-scented nose. There is a fine line of acidity on the palate, very tensile and focused on the saline finish, residual hints of stem ginger lingering on the aftertaste. Excellent. Drinking range: 2022 - 2040 Rating: 92 Neal Martin, www.vinous.com (Dec 2020)

(worked entirely by hand as the vineyard has a 40% south-facing slope which ensures that it receives plenty of sun). A distinctly smoky nose features notes of matchstick, petrol and a plethora of citrus nuances and particularly lemon-lime. There is fine volume to the attractively textured and admirably concentrated medium-bodied flavors that exude evident minerality on the powerful, serious and built-to-age finish. Lovely. Drinking range: 2027 - Rating: 90-93 Allen Meadows, www.Burghound.com (Jun 2019)

Domaine Hubert Lamy

Olivier Lamy has built on the solid foundations his father Hubert prepared with twenty years and more of work in the vineyards. Today the Domaine has 18.5 hectares of vines - 80% are Chardonnay and 20% Pinot Noir. The vines are in several appellations - Saint-Aubin, Puligny-Montrachet, Chassagne-Montrachet and Santenay, as well as the excellent Bourgogne Blanc. The reputation of the domaine is now made, but the Saint Aubins, both red and white, remain some of the bargains of Côte d'Or, and challenge the supposed superiority of the grander village names on a regular basis, both in terms of young and mature wines.

Olivier's wine-making style and preference is to emphasise the fresh and the mineral side of his wines, and there is very little new wood in this cellar, with many wines with no new wood at all, and that is with the wines in 600 litre demi-muids rather that the classic Burgundy (225 litre) fût. Certainly Oliver's whites do have an arrow-like purity and intensity, and seem to age completely straight and true.

The reds are worth more than a casual mention too. Olivier has been getting some consultation help from Sylvain Pataille, and the wines have energy and bounce along with the supple tannins and ripeness.

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