SAINT AUBIN
2017 Princée Domaine Hubert Lamy
Olivier normally would hope to make 70-80 barrels, but this year it's a mere 25. Cropped at 10hl/ha. Ripe and expressive nose is supported on the palate too, and there's an enlivening dryness of texture with a scrape of limestone - great village wine. Drinking range: 2019 - 2025L&S (Jul 2018)
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There is interesting Chablis-like nuances of iodine and quinine present on the more citrus-inflected nose of lemongrass and acacia blossom. There is a bit more size and weight to the rich and nicely textured flavors that also exude a subtle bead of minerality before concluding in a dry and clean if mildly rustic finale. Drinking range: 2023 - Rating: 88-90 Allen Meadows, www.Burghound.com (Jun 2019)
The 2017 Saint-Aubin La Princée is very pretty, displaying notes of pear, white flowers, citrus oil and a subtle touch of anise. On the palate, the wine is medium-bodied, tangy and elegantly textural, with excellent length on the precise finish. Rating: 89-91 William Kelley, The Wine Advocate (Jan 2019)
Tense and dense on the nose with much more tension and ambition than many. VGV Drinking range: 2020 - 2027 Rating: 16.5 Jancis Robinson OBE MW - www.JancisRobinson.com (Jan 2019)
A perennial favourite, 2017 La Princée, showed perfect balance. Rating: 17.5+ Matthew Jukes www.matthewjukes.com (Jan 2019)
The 2017 Saint-Aubin La Princée offers apple blossom and fresh limestone scents on the nose that feels well defined. The palate is fresh on the entry, very lively and citrus fresh with a touch of orange zest that enlivens the finish. Perfect drinking over the next several years, though it remains a couple of steps behind the Premier Crus. Drinking range: 2020 - 2028 Rating: 89-91 Neal Martin, www.vinous.com (Jan 2019)
Ripe at the front, rounded in the middle and floral on the finish.Sarah Marsh MW, The Burgundy Briefing (Dec 2018)
Domaine Hubert Lamy
Olivier Lamy has built on the solid foundations his father Hubert prepared with twenty years and more of work in the vineyards. Today the Domaine has 18.5 hectares of vines - 80% are Chardonnay and 20% Pinot Noir. The vines are in several appellations - Saint-Aubin, Puligny-Montrachet, Chassagne-Montrachet and Santenay, as well as the excellent Bourgogne Blanc. The reputation of the domaine is now made, but the Saint Aubins, both red and white, remain some of the bargains of Côte d'Or, and challenge the supposed superiority of the grander village names on a regular basis, both in terms of young and mature wines.
Olivier's wine-making style and preference is to emphasise the fresh and the mineral side of his wines, and there is very little new wood in this cellar, with many wines with no new wood at all, and that is with the wines in 600 litre demi-muids rather that the classic Burgundy (225 litre) fût. Certainly Oliver's whites do have an arrow-like purity and intensity, and seem to age completely straight and true.
The reds are worth more than a casual mention too. Olivier has been getting some consultation help from Sylvain Pataille, and the wines have energy and bounce along with the supple tannins and ripeness.
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