2018 Vieilles Vignes En Buland Domaine Daniel Barraud
This plot was planted in 1934. The wine is now labelled as ‘Grand Vin de Bourgogne’ (as it is!)However, this is the best they can do as the local authorities will not classify En Buland as 1er cru, despite its clear brilliance! This is simply because it faces North East and not South. Perched highish on the Rock of Solutré. With the same soil as Les Crays but on the opposite rock across the valley - which means it has a very different exposition. Power and weight are mesmerising - but delivered with aplomb. This is intense and powerful - but still so tightly coiled in the middle. Energy and flesh in great harmony. It is a masterpiece of White Burgundy. L&S (Nov 2019)
*Case price discount: Mix any 12 bottles (or 9l equivalent) of wine or 6 bottles of Champagne, Spirits, Sweet Wine or Fortified to get the 'case price' for each bottle.
The 2018 Pouilly-Fuissé En Buland Vieilles Vignes is showing beautifully, wafting from the glass with aromas of fresh peach, pear and citrus oil mingled with hints of freshly baked bread and warm pastry. Full-bodied, satiny and enveloping, it's racy and incisive, with excellent depth at the core, tangy acids and a long, mineral finish. This is the most concentrated and the most tensile of Barraud's wines this year, and it is also likely to prove the longest lived. Drinking range: 2020 - 2035 Rating: 93 William Kelley, The Wine Advocate (Jun 2020)
(65+ year old vines near Solutré that face north east). This too evidences post-malo elements on what appears to be a ripe white fruit-fleshed nose. The big, rich and bold large-scaled flavors exhibit evident minerality on the dense, serious and sappy finish. This too will need to clean up and then add more complexity as it ages though En Buland has an excellent track record of doing just that. Drinking range: 2025 - Rating: 90-93 Allen Meadows, www.Burghound.com (Jan 2020)
The oak is more obvious here than on the Sur La Roche but it’s attractively so in a delicate cedar and oatmeal character, allowing the stony citrus to hold its own. Creamy texture, moderate intensity but QGV. Drinking range: 2021 - 2024 Rating: 16.5 Julia Harding MW, www.JancisRobinson.com (Jan 2020)
Domaine Daniel Barraud
Daniel and Martine Barraud, now joined by their son Julien and daughter Anaïs, have vineyards in Vergisson that are mostly high up under the famous rock (Vergisson lies between the two dramatic cliffs of the rocks of Solutré and Vergisson). The vineyards here are significantly higher than those of Fuissé, and are consequently later-ripening, and the wines often have a more solid structure - but all of Daniel's wines have their own character, from the Puligny-like directness of the La Roche to the fat richness of the 'en Buland', via the mineral force of the Crays.
All the wines are made keeping close to the tenets of bio-dynamics - not as Daniel says - for the sake of it, but because over the generations experience has taught them these principles really are the best way forward - as such they only ever bottle on a waning moon. The Domaine is working toward organic certification. All the wines see some barrel ageing apart from the Chaintré, which is aged in foudre (2/3) and tank.
As Allen Meadows wrote in 2014 in Burghound 'I have said this before, but I will say it again: no one makes better wine in the Mâconnais than Barraud. There are a few domaines that produce wines that are sometimes just as good, ... but none of them surpasses the quality he consistently produces. If you aren’t familiar with the wines, you owe it to yourself and your pocketbook to check them out.' (www.Burghound.com).
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