2018 sur la Roche Domaine Daniel Barraud
|Vineyard||sur la Roche|
Damp pebbles on the nose - incredible mineral feel. Highest bit of the Rock of Vergisson, with intensely limestone soil. There is a bright and tight core of brilliant fruit here. Zipping citrus and crisp pear juice. Good energy is beautifully held by the gorgeous delicate mineral grip that builds so finely. This is heady, impressive stuff. L&S (Nov 2019)
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This is aromatically similar to the Les Crays though the pineapple and mild exoticism is somewhat less prominent. There is once again very good density and slightly better energy to the medium-bodied flavors that exude evident minerality on the sleeker if slightly warmer finale. This is a full-on but balanced effort that could also easily be enjoyed young while being sufficiently structured to reward a few years of cellaring too if that’s your preference. Drinking range: 2024 - Rating: 90 Allen Meadows, www.Burghound.com (Oct 2020)
Exhibiting scents of Meyer lemon, nutmeg and warm pastry, Barraud's 2018 Pouilly-Fuissé Sur La Roche is medium to full-bodied, bright and precise, with a delicate core of fruit, lively acids and a long, mineral finish. Again, this is inherently a site where ripeness comes rapidly, so the harvest date was evidently judiciously chosen. Drinking range: 2020 - 2028 Rating: 92 William Kelley, The Wine Advocate (Jun 2020)
A difficult nose is comprised by reduction and residual malolactic fermentation aromas. Otherwise there is better density if not more energy to the medium-bodied flavors where the post-malo character displayed by the nose shows up as well making this pretty tough to read. However, while not pleasant there is nothing technically amiss and this should clean up though with that said, note that my projected range is necessarily provisory. Drinking range: 2025 - Rating: 89-92 Allen Meadows, www.Burghound.com (Jan 2020)
Domaine Daniel Barraud
Daniel and Martine Barraud, now joined by their son Julien and daughter Anaïs, have vineyards in Vergisson that are mostly high up under the famous rock (Vergisson lies between the two dramatic cliffs of the rocks of Solutré and Vergisson). The vineyards here are significantly higher than those of Fuissé, and are consequently later-ripening, and the wines often have a more solid structure - but all of Daniel's wines have their own character, from the Puligny-like directness of the La Roche to the fat richness of the 'en Buland', via the mineral force of the Crays.
All the wines are made keeping close to the tenets of bio-dynamics - not as Daniel says - for the sake of it, but because over the generations experience has taught them these principles really are the best way forward - as such they only ever bottle on a waning moon. The Domaine is working toward organic certification. All the wines see some barrel ageing apart from the Chaintré, which is aged in foudre (2/3) and tank.
As Allen Meadows wrote in 2014 in Burghound 'I have said this before, but I will say it again: no one makes better wine in the Mâconnais than Barraud. There are a few domaines that produce wines that are sometimes just as good, ... but none of them surpasses the quality he consistently produces. If you aren’t familiar with the wines, you owe it to yourself and your pocketbook to check them out.' (www.Burghound.com).
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