|Sub-district||Côte de Beaune|
Silky attack, dense and rich with a touch of sweetness - but very compact. The silkiness makes it seem readier than the Chatenière, but then you sense that this is going to go on and on. Olivier says that what we are tasting will be assembled with what is left in small barrels, which has more energy and is more reductive, so this sample may be more advanced than the reality of the whole cuvée. L&S (Oct 2019)
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Complex notes of pear, wheat toast, citrus oil, mandarin and wet stones introduce the 2018 Saint-Aubin 1er Cru En Remilly, a medium to full-bodied, deep and multidimensional wine that's layered and muscular, with excellent tension at the core and a long, mineral finish. This is a brilliant En Remilly in the making. Rating: 92-94 William Kelley, The Wine Advocate(Feb 2020)
En Remilly is regarded as one of St-Aubin's top two crus, partly due to its proximity to Chassagne-Montrachet's grand crus. From Olivier Lamy, this is floral, taut and nuanced, with freshness, salinity and the density to age. Drinking range: 2022 - 2028 Rating: 94 Tim Atkin MW - Decanter(Dec 2019)
This has a mix of clay, rock and limestone all mixed up and looser – it does not have that clay layer like the Dent de Chien so in a warm vintage it can suffer and get too ripe without water it stresses. But therefore it really shows well in a lesser vintage. Also depends – part of the vineyard get the wind and is always fresher. Wind does play a part here. Elegant, tense and straight. Pure and salty on the finish. It’s swift. Clipped. Dry minerals. I really like it. Rating: 91 Sarah Marsh MW, The Burgundy Briefing(Nov 2019)
Domaine Hubert Lamy
Olivier Lamy has built on the solid foundations his father Hubert prepared with twenty years and more of work in the vineyards. Today the Domaine has 18.5 hectares of vines - 80% are Chardonnay and 20% Pinot Noir. The vines are in several appellations - Saint-Aubin, Puligny-Montrachet, Chassagne-Montrachet and Santenay, as well as the excellent Bourgogne Blanc. The reputation of the domaine is now made, but the Saint Aubins, both red and white, remain some of the bargains of Côte d'Or, and challenge the supposed superiority of the grander village names on a regular basis, both in terms of young and mature wines.
Olivier's wine-making style and preference is to emphasise the fresh and the mineral side of his wines, and in 2016 and 2017 there was no new wood at all, and that is with the wines in 600 litre demi-muids rather that the classic Burgundy (225 litre) fût. Certainly Oliver's whites do have an arrow-like purity and intensity, and seem to age completely straight and true.
The reds are worth more than a casual mention too. Olivier has been getting some consultation help from Sylvain Pataille, and the wines have energy and bounce along with the supple tannins and ripeness.
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