|Sub-district||Côte de Beaune|
70% whole bunch here. Nico calls this the synthesis of the rest of the cellar, but it is bigger yet too. Big in body and richly dense with tannic power - but as 'synthesis' suggests, there's finesse here too - real distinctiveness and definition. Needs a long time in the cellar, and will amply reward the patient. Drinking range: 2032 - L&S (Oct 2020)
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(from both Grands and Petits Epenots with some vines that are 115 years of age; 90% whole clusters). A ripe and very earthy nose grudgingly offers up its aromas of poached plum and dark currant that are liberally laced with hints of spice and floral elements. There again outstanding volume to the round, caressing and powerful yet beautifully refined flavors that conclude in a dusty, sappy and bitter pit fruit inflected finish. This is a wine of punch and finesse with a lovely sense of harmony. Note well though that the underlying tannins are dense, and this is likely to require the better part of 20 years to reach its apogee. In a word, superb. Drinking range: 2036 - Rating: 93-95 Allen Meadows, www.Burghound.com (Apr 2021)
Rossignol's terrific 2019 Pommard 1er Cru Les Epenots wafts from the glass with aromas of plums, dark berry fruit, exotic spices, peonies, blood orange and raw cocoa. Medium to full-bodied, layered and velvety, it's deep and multidimensional, with a concentrated core of fruit, beautifully refined tannins and a long, lively finish. As is often the case, this old-vine cuvée is the highlight of the portfolio, and it will be worth a special effort to track down. Rating: 94-96 William Kelley, The Wine Advocate (Jan 2021)
The 2019 Pommard Epenots 1er Cru includes 70% whole cluster fruit. It has a perfumed floral bouquet of black cherries, mulberry, incense and lavender aromas. The palate is rounded on the entry, very sweet and fleshy, with a soft landing on the savory finish. Fine, but maybe not quite as charming as the Argillières this year. Drinking range: 2023 - 2038 Rating: 90-92 Neal Martin, www.vinous.com (Dec 2020)
Domaine Nicolas Rossignol
Born in 1974, Nicolas represents the fifth generation of his family in Volnay (a village which seems to be populated almost entirely by families with Rossignol somewhere in the name). He started to make the wines of his 'Rossignol-Jeanniard' family domaine when he was just twenty.
After studies at the Lycée viticole in Beaune, he worked with Joseph Voillot in Volnay, who became a mentor to him, for Louis Latour at their estate in the Ardèche, and for Vieux Télégraphe on Châteauneuf, where he loved the combination of richness and elegance in the wines, which influenced the style of wines he would later want to make himself. He also made wine in Boschendal in South Africa, and for Château la Cardonne in Bordeaux (then managed by the Lafite team).
In 1997, Nico started his own domaine with three hectares of vines inherited from an uncle. After a period in which some of the wines he made were labelled 'Domaine Rossignol-Jeanniard', and some 'Domaine Nicolas Rossignol', he began to buy the fruit from his (Rossignol-Jeanniard) family, and label these simply 'Nicolas Rossignol' (without the 'domaine'). Now the vines (all 16 hectares) are finally in the 'Domaine Nicolas Rossignol', and labelled as such. To handle this sizeable domaine, Nico needed a new winery. Having started with a chaotic assemblage of tanks in a building in the village of Volnay, he had moved to share Ben Leroux's winery on the Beaune ring road, but Nico had dreams of his own place and built his impressive new winery in 2016. A fantastic bespoke build, admittedly in a ZI (Zone Industrielle) on the outskirts of Beaune, which he recognises is not ideal for the 'folklore' aspect, it is a perfect tool for the job, and does have a good view of all 'his' bits of the Côte - from a sort of eyrie on the roof.
Like many Burgundy domaines, the appellations have proliferated as the surface area of the vineyard has increased with lots of little (and some quite large) parcels of vines in Aloxe ('village'), Savigny ('village' and two Premiers Crus), Beaune (three Premiers Crus), Pernand ('village' and one Premier Cru), Pommard (three 'village' wines and six Premiers Crus) and Volnay ('village' and seven Premiers Crus). With two cuvées of Bourgogne Rouge, this adds up to twenty-eight different wines. Like Burgundy more generally, the joy of tasting here is recognising the individual character of each plot, modulated by the conditions of the vintage, of course, but each with their own distinct personality
The viticulture of the domaine is inspired by biodynamics, but Nico is pragmatic, and although no weedkillers are used and the vineyards are maintained by ploughing, he says that there are both good and bad things in biodynamics, and he will use conventional fungicides to combat disease. At harvest time the grapes are picked into eight kilo boxes, and transported to the winery in them to minimise handling. They are then carefully sorted, before either being de-stemmed (but with the berries left intact) before being put in the fermentation vat, or put in directly as whole bunches. Nico uses varying proportions of whole bunch fermentation depending on the type of wine each vineyard gives, and of course on the health and 'ripeness' of the stems. A classic fermentation using the natural yeats on the grapes ensues, with punchdowns (pigeage) and pumpovers (remontage) used to extract flavour from the grapes, or to oxygenate the wine and refine its structure - the amount used judged by tastings throughout the process. After the vatting the free-run juice is separated from the pressed juice - the latter being blended back as required if necessary after tasting. The wine is put into barrel by gravity (with the amount of new wood between 0 and 50%), and aged for between ten and twenty months depending on the wine and the vintage, always on the lees without racking. The wood and the amount of heat used in making the barrels is also modulated for each wine. The malolactic fermentation is delayed for six months to increase aromatic complexity and structure to the wines. At the end of the ageing the wines are racked and blended in tank, before bottling without fining or filtration.
Nicolas makes deeply-coloured, flavourful wines. He is always keen to rubbish the generalisation that Pommard makes structured 'masculine' wines, as opposed to Volnay's supposedly 'feminine' ones, and proves his point with Pommards grown on clay and Volnays like his punchily structured 'Ronceret'. Each wine is very site-specific. Great winemaking here from a domaine that is really hitting its stride after many years of disappointing yields caused by hail and frost.
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