2019 Levrons Domaine Berthelemot
|Sub-district||Côte de Beaune|
The 2019 Puligny-Montrachet Levrons is rather muted on the nose despite encouragement. The palate is better with decent concentration on the entry, hints of ginger and spice before gaining weight and density towards the finish, sour lemon on the aftertaste. Fine. Drinking range: 2022 - 2027 Rating: 88 Neal Martin, www.vinous.com (Jan 2021)
*Case price discount: Mix any 12 bottles (or 9l equivalent) of wine or 6 bottles of Champagne, Spirits, Sweet Wine or Fortified to get the 'case price' for each bottle.
Quite a sweet nose but good fresh lemon quality on the palate. Chewy, minerally finish with a hint of oak. Not ethereal but a solid performance. Just a little foot-dragging. Drinking range: 2022 - 2028 Rating: 16 Jancis Robinson OBE MW - www.JancisRobinson.com (Jan 2021)
The vines, planted in 1947, are on deep clay soil, but deliver small millerand grapes. However, half the crop was lost to frost. Fresh pale lime colour, good tension, some warmth to the fruit, but a better balance than the St-Aubin. There is a touch of liquorice at the back even so. Tasted: October 2020 *** Rating: 89 Jasper Morris - Inside Burgundy (Oct 2020)
Domaine Berthelemot is the creation of Brigitte Berthelemot, who is, by all accounts, something of a tour de force. Brigitte has, in a very short space of time (starting in 2006), knocked together a domaine of 15 hectares, spread over 45 parcels.
The basis of this spread was Domaine Garaudet in Pommard, but then they also took over Domaine Allexant. Charles Allexant was a bouilleur de cru (distiller of marc) who went round the villages plying his trade and who knew the Côte well, and also the vignerons for whom he distilled. In 1957 he bought a first vineyard in Volnay, and others followed, so that he built up a patchwork from Gevrey to the Côte Chalonnaise.
The final piece of the jigsaw was the purchase of Domaine Marey in Pernand.
The whole domaine is worked organically and they are just finishing the conversion so that they will be certified from 2021.
The vinification is overseen by Brigitte with the help of head winemaker Marc Cugney. Brigitte's son Thomas has been working alongside as 'a student' for three years. The reds are picked into small cases in which they are transported to the winery - and vinified in stainless steel after a 4 day cold maceration. Extraction is gentle and mostly by remontage. The wines then go into barrel with a maximum of 20% new wood. The whites are pressed, and after a short débourbage, are put in tank, where they begin their fermentation. Once the fermentation is under way, they are moved to barrel, with a maximum of 25% new wood.
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