2018 SAINT AUBIN 1er Cru Les Murgers des Dents de Chien Domaine Hubert Lamy, Lea & Sandeman

SAINT AUBIN

2019 1er Cru Les Murgers des Dents de Chien Domaine Hubert Lamy

Grapes Chardonnay
Colour White
Origin France, Burgundy
District Côte d'Or
Sub-district Côte de Beaune
Village Saint Aubin
Classification 1er Cru
ABV 13%
Vineyard Les Murgers des Dents de Chien

The 2019 Saint-Aubin Les Murgers des Dents de Chien 1er Cru has a more austere bouquet than the Chez Edouard; it wants to hold everything back for now (and there’s nothing wrong with that). The saline palate is well balanced with a fine thread of acidity and a linear, brioche-tinged finish. I am going to be prudent here; I think this needs some bottle age to prove its pedigree. Drinking range: 2023 - 2033 Rating: 91+ Neal Martin, www.vinous.com (Dec 2021)


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The 2019 Saint-Aubin 1er Cru Les Murgers des Dents de Chien was a touch reduced when I visited, unwinding in the glass with notes of crisp orchard and stone fruit, framed by hints of hazelnuts and smoke. Medium to full-bodied, chiseled and tightly wound, it's chalkier and less enveloping than the fleshy En Remilly—though that's partly the impact of youthful reduction, too. Rating: 92 - 94+ William Kelley, The Wine Advocate (Jan 2021)

The 2019 Saint-Aubin Les Murgers des Dents de Chien 1er Cru has a delightful liquorice infused citrus fruit. This expands with aeration. The palate is very well defined with a crisp bead of acidity, apricot and quince, quite spicy with ginger and lemongrass towards the persistent finish. Superb. Drinking range: 2024 - 2045 Rating: 92-94 Neal Martin, www.vinous.com (Dec 2020)

Pale primrose. This wine has one of the most alluring bouquets in the cellar, while still displaying the weight and warmth of the vintage. Lively fresh ripe citrus to finish and excellent length. The stones show through, but they haven’t taken the heat so much. Just a fraction of tense reduction is a strong positive here. Tasted: October 2020 **** Rating: 92-95 Jasper Morris - Inside Burgundy  (Oct 2020)

Domaine Hubert Lamy

Olivier Lamy has built on the solid foundations his father Hubert prepared with twenty years and more of work in the vineyards. Today the Domaine has 18.5 hectares of vines - 80% are Chardonnay and 20% Pinot Noir. The vines are in several appellations - Saint-Aubin, Puligny-Montrachet, Chassagne-Montrachet and Santenay, as well as the excellent Bourgogne Blanc. The reputation of the domaine is now made, but the Saint Aubins, both red and white, remain some of the bargains of Côte d'Or, and challenge the supposed superiority of the grander village names on a regular basis, both in terms of young and mature wines.

Olivier's wine-making style and preference is to emphasise the fresh and the mineral side of his wines, and there is very little new wood in this cellar, with many wines with no new wood at all, and that is with the wines in 600 litre demi-muids rather that the classic Burgundy (225 litre) fût. Certainly Oliver's whites do have an arrow-like purity and intensity, and seem to age completely straight and true.

The reds are worth more than a casual mention too. Olivier has been getting some consultation help from Sylvain Pataille, and the wines have energy and bounce along with the supple tannins and ripeness.

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