2016 CLOS VOUGEOT Grand Cru Domaine Thibault Liger-Belair, Lea & Sandeman

CLOS VOUGEOT

2020 Grand Cru Domaine Thibault Liger-Belair

Grapes Pinot Noir
Colour Red
Origin France, Burgundy
District Côte d'Or
Sub-district Côte de Nuits
Village Vougeot
Classification Grand Cru
ABV 14%
Vineyard Clos Vougeot

From the south side of the Clos. 60% of the vines were planted in 1964, and 40% in 1992. They keep the old vines as whole bunches, but because they produce so much less, it's only 40% of the cuvée. The rows are 200m long, so give a good cross-section of the Clos, with limestone at the top, running down through red clay and white marls. Very deep colour with powerful nose, wild ripe berries and hedgerow fruit, the palate board and powerful. Drinking range: 2032 - 2048 L&S (Nov 2021)


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This comes from the southern and upper part of the Clos near Echézeaux. Part of the vines were planted in 1944 and part – just over half of the cuvée's volume – were planted in 1922. There's 50% whole cluster in total. This is a rustic, masculine Clos Vougeot with tangy blackberries, crunchy red currants, clove and black peppercorns light up the palate. The purity is incredible. Drinking range: 2024 - 2040 Rating: 96 Christy Canterbury MW - TimAtkin.com (Feb 2022)

(from a .72 ha parcel on the Vosne side in the middle against the southern wall). Very dense if reticent aromas only grudgingly offer up their notes of cassis, poached plum, pungent earth and an interesting hint of smoked meat. The succulent and rounded larger-bodied flavors also possess focused power and excellent punch on the moderately rustic and robust finale. This bold effort will also require at least some forbearance. Drinking range: 2032 - Rating: 91-94 Allen Meadows, www.Burghound.com (Jan 2022)

The old vines of 1944 account for 60% by surface area but 40% in fruit volume, and these are in whole bunch. The rest, destemmed, comes from the 1992 planting. Very intense black purple, the nose is rather blocked at the moment by a touch of reduction. Blocky, powerful but not cooked. Higher acidity here. Altogether extremely disjointed because so backward. Once this integrates it could become something very interesting, but I have been more cautious for the time being. Tasted: November 2021 Rating: 92-96 Jasper Morris - Inside Burgundy  (Jan 2022)

Domaine Thibault Liger-Belair

Thibault Liger-Belair has two hectares in Les Saint Georges, the vineyard which gives Nuits the rest of its name, and 60 ares out of a total of 4 hectares of the Grand Cru Richebourg, as well as a good holding in the Clos Vougeot and some well-placed village wines. The vineyards are a good start, but it is Thibault himself who has catapulted this domaine straight into the very top echelons of Côte de Nuits domaines from his first vintage (2002). Thibault was trained as an oenologist but first worked as a wine buyer. He has come to wine making with a wide experience of wine buying, and has had the advantage of having discussed wine-making for many years, with the benefit of his oenological background, with some of the best winemakers of the world. Viticulture is biodynamic (since 2005), yields low but not ludicrously low, everything is pragmatic, so that he should be doing just what is necessary and no more. He uses 40-50% new wood maximum. The wines are bright, pure, focused, aromatic and elegant without lacking anything in the way of stuffing.

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