DASH FARM CHARDONNAY

2021 Joshua Cooper

Grapes Chardonnay
Colour White
Origin Australia, Victoria
District Mount Alexander
ABV 13.5%

Quite pungent and racy with some obvious fruit in the middle. Clean as a whistle and (just) not too austere. Bone dry. 13.5% Drinking range: 2023 - 2027 Rating: 16.5 Jancis Robinson OBE MW - www.JancisRobinson.com (Oct 2023)


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Erin Larkin's note 'in a word: delicious' really does get to the point. Quite a deep colour, restrained nose, but with a sensation of fullness, palate also restrained, but not mean, lush even, yet still fine and fresh, relaxed in itself, all just the essence of 'gourmand' with delightful balance, and all to easy to swallowL&S (Jul 2023)

2021 Joshua Cooper Dash Farms Mount Alexander Chardonnay shows that this Mount Alexander site casts the same spell on white grapes as on the reds. This is both a bitter and a sherbety wine in the same breath. It is clean and ripe, gossamer-smooth and then raw and hard all of a sudden. While it is easy to glug and much more refined than it appears on the surface, there is attitude and edge everywhere you turn. These marvellous discoveries continue to elaborate on the never-ending notion that Australia is so massive that we have barely scratched the surface regarding wonderful and different spots to plant vines.Matthew Jukes www.matthewjukes.com (Oct 2023)

In a word: delicious. This 2021 Dash Farms Vineyard Chardonnay is detailed and concentrated, with layers of flavor that settle on the tongue and the inside of the cheeks. Brine, stewed apple, buttered toast, salted nuts, clove bud and wafts of licorice rise out of the glass. In the mouth, the acidity is juicy and paves the way for flavor to flood across the tongue. For all of its rambunctious outlay of personality, it manages to keep a lid on it all (sealed under Diam and wax; I am not muddling metaphors) via the phenolics, which are poised and fine. It's super smart and, like Cooper's other wines, distinct. As an afterthought, the flow of flavor is interesting: it is glassy and soft, but the acidity punctuates it. Like the straight path of light, the acidity spears the fruit and creates space in the wine. Drinking range: 2022 - 2032 Rating: 94 Erin Larkin, www.RobertParker.com (Oct 2022)

Joshua Cooper

Josh Cooper was brought up on the Cobaw Ridge wine estate in the Macedon ranges, a cool spot north of Melbourne. However as a winemaker, Josh is 'ploughing his own furrow' (as Huon Hooke put it).

After extensive travel and experience at vineyards as far afield as Domaine JJ Confuron and Chablis, but also closer to home with Yabby Lake and Hanging Rock, Josh started in 2012 by specialising in Chardonnay and Pinot Noir from the Macedon ranges and nearby areas. He has now been led by his admiration of some of the great old 'claret' styles of the 70s and 80s he has tasted, to try his hand at Cabernet as well, including buying fruit from the oldest block (planted in 1970) at Balgownie Vineyards in Bendigo.

A low-intervention winemaker sourcing fruit from organic or biodynamic vineyards where possible, Josh uses SO2 but nothing else, to make whites which are pure and racy (one year in barrel with no lees-stirring), but with enough flesh to be gourmand too. The reds are concentrated, aromatically precise and true to their origins, while remaining beautifully balanced and harmonious, drinkable from the off, but with the Cabernets being capable of long aging like the old wines he so admires.

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