|Sub-district||Côte de Beaune|
Tasted at the worst moment imaginable and still it showed well! It finished its malo on Thursday, was sulphited on Friday and I tasted it on the following Monday. Very precise and jewel-like, firm and transparent, despite obvious concentration it is this purity which dominates. 'There are years when the Meursaults don't have this much stuffing', remarks Rémi. At our 2010 Burgundy tasting it again showed a lovely sweet edge to the attack, togther with purity and sophistication. L&S (Dec 2011)
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Another absolutely delicious entry-level wine, the 2010 Bourgogne is ripe, open and seductive. Juicy peaches, nectarines, flowers, spices and smoke come together beautifully in the glass. This is a decidedly fleshy Bourgogne bursting with class. Jobard gives his Bourgogne the same elevage as his top wines, which is to say 12 months in cask followed by six months in oak. The Bourgogne is made from six parcels, all around the village of Meursault. Anticipated maturity: 2012+ Rating: 89 Antonio Galloni, www.vinous.com (Sep 2012)
If you want to drink good generic white Burgundy, find a good producer of more elevated wines. This screwcapped example (actually it isn't screwcapped - Tim saw a sample which had a special plastic cap closure. It will be under cork. Ed.) is focused and bright with citrus peel and pear flavours and palate-tingling acidity. 2012-15 (89/100) Rating: 89 Tim Atkin MW, www.timatkin.com (Feb 2012)
Rating: 17 Matthew Jukes www.matthewjukes.com (Jan 2012)
Domaine Rémi Jobard
Rémi has been making small qualitative changes ever since he took over here in 1996. The entire vineyard is cordon-pruned, so yields are naturally limited. There has been no use of fertiliser since 1994, and the vineyard is grassed-over to encourage the vine roots to go deep. The domaine has been certified organic from 2008. He says that the two most important things are the absence of weedkiller (and thus the necessity to plough, which cuts any surface roots and makes the vine go deeper) and not adding any fertiliser which again makes the roots go deeper to find nutrients.
Rémi has two vast presses, to enable him to press very slowly over six hours, and this has resulted in a big jump in finesse. The élevage now lasts nearly fifteen months, so as to allow the wines to develop slowly and to avoid fining. As a result these are wines which take a moment to show, but which reward the patient with complexity and great depth of flavour.
Rémi made a move from traditional barrels to foudres made of a mix of French, Austrian and Slavonian oak, constructed by Austrian cooper Stockinger, and having added a new one (or two) each year, there's barely a normal barrel left. He likes the way the wines develop in these large volumes, in which the 'oaking' effect is minimised.
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