CORTON CLOS DU ROI
2011 Grand Cru Domaine Chandon de Briailles
|Sub-district||Côte de Beaune|
|Vineyard||Corton Clos du Roi|
Starts less impressively than the more expressive Bressandes, but picks up. A core of sweetness, delicate concentration without huge body. Lovely tannins on the finish. L&S (Jan 2013)
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(this has the highest average vine age of these grands crus at 40+ years of age). As is usually the case this is much more obviously sauvage in character than either of its two grand cru stable mates. The reticent nose grudgingly offers up notes of spice, floral elements, smoke, tea and a mix of red and blue pinot fruit aromas. The palate impression is quite rich with plenty of dry extract that buffers what are the ripest tannins in the range, all wrapped in an intensely mineral-driven and hugely long finish. This is by far and away the best wine here. 2023+ Rating: 93 Allen Meadows, www.Burghound.com (Apr 2013)
(from high on the hillside): Medium red, a bit less bright than the Bressandes. Extremely minerally on the nose, with a hint of menthol and little in the way of fruit showing today. Then rich and saline in the mouth, showing more structure than perfume today. Youthfully imploded today and dominated by its serious tannic structure. Less generous than the Bressandes, and more intellectual, notes Francois de Nicolay, adding that this wine is for serious collectors and always needs a decade of bottle aging. Rating: 90-93 Stephen Tanzer's International Wine Cellar (Feb 2013)
This has a smoky, tight and dark aroma. Rich on the front of the palate, full and juicy and broad. A large wine, plenty of finely hewn muscle - not a whit heavy. It has a lifted elegance with a density and power. The tannins are more sinewy, lithe and present than in Bressandes. It finishes on dark a smoky note. 2018 Rating: 18.75 Sarah Marsh MW, The Burgundy Briefing (Nov 2012)
Domaine Chandon de Briailles
One of the great family domaines of the Côte d'Or, housed in the remarkable manor house at Savigny, with excellent holdings in Savigny itself and in neighbouring Pernand and on the hill of Corton. Organic since 1988 and, now, biodynamic (fully certified by Demeter and Ecocert). It is run by brother and sister François and Claude de Nicolaÿ. As François explains, they do not make 'bêtes de concours' or competition wines, but ones you drink. They have over the last few years progressed the renewal of the barrels of the domaine - there is still very little actual new wood, 5% new wood on the premiers crus, and 10% on the Grands crus, but they have replaced the oldest barrels which they have come to understand did have an effect of closing the wines down.
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